Is your car starting hard or not at all in these near zero or below mornings? Does your diesel gel up? We’ve been seeing temperatures near zero and below the past couple of weeks. Here at Overweg Repair, LLC, we’ve been busy with: Jump-starting vehicles because their battery is weak or dead. Pulling diesel trucks in the shop so they can warm-up because they’ve gelled-up. Here are some tips to keep you cars and trucks on the road instead of in the shop:
The cold weather can be brutal on your battery, it’s important to have a good battery for the winter. If you have had your battery for a while, there are some things you can check. The first and easiest thing is to check the posts, if there’s any white corrosion. The posts can be cleaned with a wire brush. When you put the cables back on, make sure they are on the right posts nice and tight. A battery should be tested if you start having problems with it. A mechanic can help you check and test your battery.
When it’s below freezing, leave your vehicle warm-up three or four minutes before you start driving off. That’s not only good for your battery, but its good for all the components on your car or truck. If the temperature drops below ten degrees, it’s good to leave you vehicle idle in neutral when you are warming your car or truck up. This warms-up the transmission fluid. If you have a remote start or start your vehicle, and then decide to not to go, you should leave your vehicle running awhile to recharge your battery, so the next time the vehicle is started you won’t have a weak or dead battery.
Anti-freeze is another thing to check on when it’s below zero, it could freeze. Anti-freeze should be between 30-40 degrees below zero when it’s the radiator. You can buy an anti-freeze tester at a hardware store. A mechanic can assist you checking your anti-freeze.
Diesel engines should be plugged-in over night to help them start in the morning, like gas engines. A diesel engine that will start in the morning doesn’t necessarily mean that it won’t gel-up a mile down the road, unless it had number one diesel the tank. Number one diesel must be used in all diesel engines during the winter months to prevent them from gelling-up. Number one diesel won’t gel-up until forty degrees below zero, whereas number two will gel-up at twenty above zero. Even though number two diesel is about 10-15 cents cheaper than number one, running number one this winter would save you time out of the shop and money on fuel filters.
When a diesel truck is gelled-up, there are only a couple of things you can do to make it start again. Replace the fuel filters and pour some power service diesel 911 into you tanks. If you are able to get your truck pulled into a heated building or shop, and let it thaw out for a hour or two that’s a plus.
By keeping your battery clean and using number one diesel, you’ll spend more time on the road and less in the shop.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Tires (Continued)
Last article talked about different types of tires and the letters associated with each type. This article focuses on the numbers on the sidewalls of tires. Each set of numbers means something specific about a tire.
Take P225/50R16 91S for example, the “P” means passenger tire, as mentioned in the last article. The “225” describes the section width of a tire. Section width basically tells how wide the tire is, and measure in millimeters, not inches. Section width is determined by the distance between the widest part of the outside sidewall across to the widest part of the inner sidewall when mounted on the correct wheel width. 225mm can be converted into inches by dividing 225 by 25.4 ( the number of millimeter in one inch.) The result is 8.86 inches wide.
The “50” in P225/50R16 91S describes the tire’s sidewall height, from edge of the rim the top of the tread. The sidewall’s height is referred as the tire’s aspect ratio, profile or series. The “50” is a percentage of the section width, which means the sidewall height or aspect ratio is 50% of 225mm. Like section width, the section profile is measured by millimeters. To convert section profile to inches, you divide 225 by 25.4, which will tell the section width in inches. Then take 50% of the section width in inches to get the end result of 4.43” tall. Now take P255/70R16 for example, you would first convert the section width to inches, which is 8.86”. Then take 70% of the result to end up with 6.20” for the sidewall profile.
The “R” in P225/50R16 tells you about the tire’s internal construction. The tire’s internal construction is designed three ways. The “R” stands for radial construction meaning the tire’s body plies run parallel to each other around the tire. Body plies are referred to as a rubber-coated layer of fabric containing cords that run parallel to each other, extends from bead to bead and goes between the inner liner and belts or tread. The number of plies determines how strong the tire is. Radial tires are the most popular tire being sold today. They are used for cars, SUV’s and light pickup trucks.
If there’s a “D” in the tire size, like 225/50D16, it means that the internal body plies are crisscross diagonally and has a “bias ply” construction. These types tires are stronger and able to carry a heavier load. Bias ply construction tires can be used for light trucks and spare tires.
In 225/50B16, the “B” means that the internal body plies are not only crisscross diagonally, but that have reinforced with belt under the tread area. This type of construction is called “Belted.” Belted construction tires are practically extinct.
Bias ply and belted construction are not designed for speed where as the radial tires are. For more information on the internal construction of tires, go to http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires.shtml.
The “16” in P225/50R16 refers to the diameter of the wheel (or the rim) and tire. Tire and wheel diameters are expressed in inches. There are different wheel and tire sizes, anywhere from 8” to 28” that fit on all types of vehicles, trailers and trucks.
Some wheels and tires will have diameters in halves, like R16.5, R17.5 R19.5. These tires are used on some heavy-duty trailers and light trucks and cargo vans.
When a tire has a 91S after the tire size, like P225/50R16 91S. 91S stands for the tire’s service description. Service description refers to the tire's Load Index and Speed Rating. Service Descriptions are required on all speed rated (except for Z-speed rated) tires manufactured since 1991. For more information on Service Descriptions, go to http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35.
The tire’s DOT is a 12-digit code that is on every single tire given by the Department of Transportation. It’s way to locate a tire like a tracking number. DOT provides information like: 1st and 2nd characters are the manufacturer and plant code. 3rd and 4th characters are the tire size. Characters 5th-8th identifies the brand as well as other characteristics. 9th-12th characters: The last four numbers represent the date the tire was made. The first two numbers indicate the week and the last two numbers is the year. For example 0507, indicates the tire was made in the 5th week of 2007)
Take P225/50R16 91S for example, the “P” means passenger tire, as mentioned in the last article. The “225” describes the section width of a tire. Section width basically tells how wide the tire is, and measure in millimeters, not inches. Section width is determined by the distance between the widest part of the outside sidewall across to the widest part of the inner sidewall when mounted on the correct wheel width. 225mm can be converted into inches by dividing 225 by 25.4 ( the number of millimeter in one inch.) The result is 8.86 inches wide.
The “50” in P225/50R16 91S describes the tire’s sidewall height, from edge of the rim the top of the tread. The sidewall’s height is referred as the tire’s aspect ratio, profile or series. The “50” is a percentage of the section width, which means the sidewall height or aspect ratio is 50% of 225mm. Like section width, the section profile is measured by millimeters. To convert section profile to inches, you divide 225 by 25.4, which will tell the section width in inches. Then take 50% of the section width in inches to get the end result of 4.43” tall. Now take P255/70R16 for example, you would first convert the section width to inches, which is 8.86”. Then take 70% of the result to end up with 6.20” for the sidewall profile.
The “R” in P225/50R16 tells you about the tire’s internal construction. The tire’s internal construction is designed three ways. The “R” stands for radial construction meaning the tire’s body plies run parallel to each other around the tire. Body plies are referred to as a rubber-coated layer of fabric containing cords that run parallel to each other, extends from bead to bead and goes between the inner liner and belts or tread. The number of plies determines how strong the tire is. Radial tires are the most popular tire being sold today. They are used for cars, SUV’s and light pickup trucks.
If there’s a “D” in the tire size, like 225/50D16, it means that the internal body plies are crisscross diagonally and has a “bias ply” construction. These types tires are stronger and able to carry a heavier load. Bias ply construction tires can be used for light trucks and spare tires.
In 225/50B16, the “B” means that the internal body plies are not only crisscross diagonally, but that have reinforced with belt under the tread area. This type of construction is called “Belted.” Belted construction tires are practically extinct.
Bias ply and belted construction are not designed for speed where as the radial tires are. For more information on the internal construction of tires, go to http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires.shtml.
The “16” in P225/50R16 refers to the diameter of the wheel (or the rim) and tire. Tire and wheel diameters are expressed in inches. There are different wheel and tire sizes, anywhere from 8” to 28” that fit on all types of vehicles, trailers and trucks.
Some wheels and tires will have diameters in halves, like R16.5, R17.5 R19.5. These tires are used on some heavy-duty trailers and light trucks and cargo vans.
When a tire has a 91S after the tire size, like P225/50R16 91S. 91S stands for the tire’s service description. Service description refers to the tire's Load Index and Speed Rating. Service Descriptions are required on all speed rated (except for Z-speed rated) tires manufactured since 1991. For more information on Service Descriptions, go to http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35.
The tire’s DOT is a 12-digit code that is on every single tire given by the Department of Transportation. It’s way to locate a tire like a tracking number. DOT provides information like: 1st and 2nd characters are the manufacturer and plant code. 3rd and 4th characters are the tire size. Characters 5th-8th identifies the brand as well as other characteristics. 9th-12th characters: The last four numbers represent the date the tire was made. The first two numbers indicate the week and the last two numbers is the year. For example 0507, indicates the tire was made in the 5th week of 2007)
Thursday, October 02, 2008
Tires
When looking at a tire on a car, light truck or trailer, there’s a lot of information on that tire besides the brand and name of the tire. All the letters and number mean something specific about that tire. After reading this blog you should have a better understanding of some of the letters and numbers on a tire.
First we will begin with the size of a tire. The tire size is usually in bigger print than the rest of the letters and numbers. Take tire size P225/50R16 91S for example:
The P means that the tire is a “P-metric” size that was intended for a passenger vehicle. Passenger vehicles are classified as cars, mini vans, sport utility vehicles and light trucks, like ¼ and ½ ton trucks. The P-metric size tires started in the 1970s and are the most commonly used tire today.
If there is no letter in front of the three-digit numeric portion of a tire size, for example 225/50R16 91S, it means that the tire is a “Metric” size, also known as “Euro-Metric”. Euro-Metric sizes originated in Europe. These sizes have the same dimension as P-metric sizes, but P-metric sizes tend to handle more weight.
The “T” in T125/90D16 98M means that the tire is a Temporary Spare, also known as space saver or mini spare. Temporary Spare was designed to be temporarily used only until a flat tire can be repaired or replaced.
The “LT” in LT245/75R16 means that the tire is Light Truck-metric size. LT tires are designed to use on vehicles that are capable of carrying heavy cargo or towing large cargo. Three-quarter or one ton full-size pickups usually have light truck tires on them, as well as some big SUVs and full-size vans. Tires that are marked with the "LT" label are the "little brothers" of 18-wheel tractor-trailer tires and are designed to provide large capacity to accept the additional stresses of carrying heavy cargo.
If a tire size ends in “LT”, 7.50R16LT, that means the tire is a earlier “Numeric”, “Wide Base” or “Floatation”. For carrying or towing heavy cargo loads, these are called Numeric sizes. For 16.5-inch diameter or wider are known as Wide Base sizes. Flotation sizes are used to keep control of a vehicle on loose dirt or sandy surfaces. These tires can be found on three-quarter or one ton full-size pickups, big SUVs and full-vans.
In 195/70R15C, the “C” means Commercial tire. Commercial tires are used on full-size vans and delivery trucks that are capable of hauling heavy loads. In addition to being branded with the "C" in their size, these tires are also branded with their appropriate Service Description and "Load Range" (Load Range B, Load Range C or Load Range D). Load Range is the strength of the tire and ability to hold air pressure. Load Ranges are identified by the alphabet, in ascending order. “F” is the highest rating
The “ST” in ST225/75R15 means the tire is a Special Trailer Service size. This tire is used for boat, car and utility trailers. ST-sized tires should never be used on cars, vans or light trucks.
First we will begin with the size of a tire. The tire size is usually in bigger print than the rest of the letters and numbers. Take tire size P225/50R16 91S for example:
The P means that the tire is a “P-metric” size that was intended for a passenger vehicle. Passenger vehicles are classified as cars, mini vans, sport utility vehicles and light trucks, like ¼ and ½ ton trucks. The P-metric size tires started in the 1970s and are the most commonly used tire today.
If there is no letter in front of the three-digit numeric portion of a tire size, for example 225/50R16 91S, it means that the tire is a “Metric” size, also known as “Euro-Metric”. Euro-Metric sizes originated in Europe. These sizes have the same dimension as P-metric sizes, but P-metric sizes tend to handle more weight.
The “T” in T125/90D16 98M means that the tire is a Temporary Spare, also known as space saver or mini spare. Temporary Spare was designed to be temporarily used only until a flat tire can be repaired or replaced.
The “LT” in LT245/75R16 means that the tire is Light Truck-metric size. LT tires are designed to use on vehicles that are capable of carrying heavy cargo or towing large cargo. Three-quarter or one ton full-size pickups usually have light truck tires on them, as well as some big SUVs and full-size vans. Tires that are marked with the "LT" label are the "little brothers" of 18-wheel tractor-trailer tires and are designed to provide large capacity to accept the additional stresses of carrying heavy cargo.
If a tire size ends in “LT”, 7.50R16LT, that means the tire is a earlier “Numeric”, “Wide Base” or “Floatation”. For carrying or towing heavy cargo loads, these are called Numeric sizes. For 16.5-inch diameter or wider are known as Wide Base sizes. Flotation sizes are used to keep control of a vehicle on loose dirt or sandy surfaces. These tires can be found on three-quarter or one ton full-size pickups, big SUVs and full-vans.
In 195/70R15C, the “C” means Commercial tire. Commercial tires are used on full-size vans and delivery trucks that are capable of hauling heavy loads. In addition to being branded with the "C" in their size, these tires are also branded with their appropriate Service Description and "Load Range" (Load Range B, Load Range C or Load Range D). Load Range is the strength of the tire and ability to hold air pressure. Load Ranges are identified by the alphabet, in ascending order. “F” is the highest rating
The “ST” in ST225/75R15 means the tire is a Special Trailer Service size. This tire is used for boat, car and utility trailers. ST-sized tires should never be used on cars, vans or light trucks.
Tuesday, September 02, 2008
Hybrids: How They Work
Hybrid vehicles have two or more propulsion systems, which means driving or pushing forward. Current hybrids consist of an internal combustion engine, electric motor, and battery.
Depending on the type, design, and the use of the hybrid; hybrid designs can range from operating mostly on the internal combustion engine with some assistance from the electric motor, to operating mainly on the electric motor, using the internal combustion engine only when considerable amount of power is demanded.
There are three basic types of hybrids:
• Mild: the electric motor and battery acts as an assistant to the internal combustion engine.
• Full: the two propulsion systems, the electric motor and internal combustion engine, can work independently or in conjunction with each other.
•Plug-in: the internal combustion engine only is used for as a back-up to the main rechargeable motor and battery system.
How does each type work?
The mild and full hybrid systems never have to be plugged in.
A mild hybrid system needs the internal combustion engine running at all times to drive the vehicle. The engine acts as an assistant to the electric motor. The electric motor cannot drive alone.
Unlike a mild hybrid, a full hybrid can drive only on the electric motor, without the internal combustion engine operating. However, the full hybrid is only able to operate like this under light cruising and low acceleration conditions. As soon as significant power in desired, the engine kicks-in to additional power.
A full hybrid system gets better mileage than mild hybrids, plus much more mileage in the city, since the electric motor is likely to get used the most in the city.
Plug-in hybrids are just like their name, they plug-in in to a 110-volt household current. Unlike other hybrids where the engine kicks in when more speed and power is needed, the plug-in hybrid’s engine only kicks-in when the battery charge is low and then the battery recharges. The plug-in hybrids are able to go 20 to 60 miles on their electric charge. When the vehicle is stopped and the battery needs to be recharge, it can be plugged-in and forgotten about until next time it is used.
Plug-in hybrids are not available in the car market yet.
Depending on the type, design, and the use of the hybrid; hybrid designs can range from operating mostly on the internal combustion engine with some assistance from the electric motor, to operating mainly on the electric motor, using the internal combustion engine only when considerable amount of power is demanded.
There are three basic types of hybrids:
• Mild: the electric motor and battery acts as an assistant to the internal combustion engine.
• Full: the two propulsion systems, the electric motor and internal combustion engine, can work independently or in conjunction with each other.
•Plug-in: the internal combustion engine only is used for as a back-up to the main rechargeable motor and battery system.
How does each type work?
The mild and full hybrid systems never have to be plugged in.
A mild hybrid system needs the internal combustion engine running at all times to drive the vehicle. The engine acts as an assistant to the electric motor. The electric motor cannot drive alone.
Unlike a mild hybrid, a full hybrid can drive only on the electric motor, without the internal combustion engine operating. However, the full hybrid is only able to operate like this under light cruising and low acceleration conditions. As soon as significant power in desired, the engine kicks-in to additional power.
A full hybrid system gets better mileage than mild hybrids, plus much more mileage in the city, since the electric motor is likely to get used the most in the city.
Plug-in hybrids are just like their name, they plug-in in to a 110-volt household current. Unlike other hybrids where the engine kicks in when more speed and power is needed, the plug-in hybrid’s engine only kicks-in when the battery charge is low and then the battery recharges. The plug-in hybrids are able to go 20 to 60 miles on their electric charge. When the vehicle is stopped and the battery needs to be recharge, it can be plugged-in and forgotten about until next time it is used.
Plug-in hybrids are not available in the car market yet.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
CVT
Continuously Variable Transmission, also known as CVT, is a kind of automatic transmission that produces more useable power, improves fuel economy, and gives a smoother ride than the usual automatic transmission.
CVTs and automatics both have the same controls: No clutch pedal and P-R-N-D-L style shift pattern. The difference is that an automatic has a set number of gear ratios, or speeds, usually 4, 5 or 6. With a CVT, the transmission is constantly changing with the engine speed using a pulley system. You will never feel or hear a CVT shift when driving. CVT simply raises and lowers with the engine’s speed as needed, calling up higher engine speeds (or RPMs) for better acceleration and lower RPMs for better fuel economy while cruising.
When people first drive a vehicle with a CVT, they feel unease because of the way the CVT sounds. When you step on the accelerator, the engine races as it would with a slipping clutch in a manual or a failing automatic transmission. This is typical for a CVT, it’s adjusting the engine speed to offer the best possible power the acceleration.
How it Works
Automatic and manual transmissions both use a gear set that uses a number of ratio, or speeds. Both transmissions have: low gears for starting out, middle gears for accelerating and passing, and high gears for fuel-efficient cruising that can be shifted by the transmission itself or the driver.
There are many different styles of CVTs. Most CVTs operate on a pair of variable-diameter, that are shaped like opposing cone, with a metal belt or chain running between them. One pulley is connected to the engine (input shaft), the other to the drive wheels (output shaft). The halves of each pulley are moveable; as the pulley halves come closer together the belt is forced to ride higher on the pulley, effectively making the pulley's diameter larger. Changing the diameter of the pulleys varies the transmission's ratio (the number of times the output shaft revolves for revolution of the engine), in the same way that a 10-speed bike routes the chain over larger or smaller gears to change the ratio. Making the input pulley smaller and the output pulley larger gives a low ratio (a large number of engine revolutions producing a small number of output revolutions) for better low-speed acceleration. As the car accelerates, the pulleys vary their diameter to lower the engine speed as car speed rises. This is the same thing a conventional automatic or manual transmission does, but while a conventional transmission changes the ratio in stages by shifting gears, the CVT continuously varies the ratio; therefore it’s named "continuously variable transmission".
CVTs and automatics both have the same controls: No clutch pedal and P-R-N-D-L style shift pattern. The difference is that an automatic has a set number of gear ratios, or speeds, usually 4, 5 or 6. With a CVT, the transmission is constantly changing with the engine speed using a pulley system. You will never feel or hear a CVT shift when driving. CVT simply raises and lowers with the engine’s speed as needed, calling up higher engine speeds (or RPMs) for better acceleration and lower RPMs for better fuel economy while cruising.
When people first drive a vehicle with a CVT, they feel unease because of the way the CVT sounds. When you step on the accelerator, the engine races as it would with a slipping clutch in a manual or a failing automatic transmission. This is typical for a CVT, it’s adjusting the engine speed to offer the best possible power the acceleration.
How it Works
Automatic and manual transmissions both use a gear set that uses a number of ratio, or speeds. Both transmissions have: low gears for starting out, middle gears for accelerating and passing, and high gears for fuel-efficient cruising that can be shifted by the transmission itself or the driver.
There are many different styles of CVTs. Most CVTs operate on a pair of variable-diameter, that are shaped like opposing cone, with a metal belt or chain running between them. One pulley is connected to the engine (input shaft), the other to the drive wheels (output shaft). The halves of each pulley are moveable; as the pulley halves come closer together the belt is forced to ride higher on the pulley, effectively making the pulley's diameter larger. Changing the diameter of the pulleys varies the transmission's ratio (the number of times the output shaft revolves for revolution of the engine), in the same way that a 10-speed bike routes the chain over larger or smaller gears to change the ratio. Making the input pulley smaller and the output pulley larger gives a low ratio (a large number of engine revolutions producing a small number of output revolutions) for better low-speed acceleration. As the car accelerates, the pulleys vary their diameter to lower the engine speed as car speed rises. This is the same thing a conventional automatic or manual transmission does, but while a conventional transmission changes the ratio in stages by shifting gears, the CVT continuously varies the ratio; therefore it’s named "continuously variable transmission".
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Air Conditioning
The summer heat is just around the corner, and before you turn on the air conditioning on this summer, there’s a couple of things to check out to ensure your A/C is working properly.
Check the drive belt under the hood for wear, cracks and/or even stretches. The drive belt makes the A/C turn, and that keeps the cooling refrigerant circulating like it should. If the drive belt is bad, the belt could slip or break causing the compressor to stop.
The drive belt and compressor are sometimes difficult to locate, particularly in newer vehicles with covers and components that hide them. A mechanic technician can help you locate the belt and compressor next time you take your vehicle to the shop.
The A/C condenser is positioned in front of the vehicle’s radiator, which looks like a mini radiator. Refrigerant goes though the condenser and air flow across its cooling fins, removing heat from the circulating refrigerant.
If the fan fins ever become damaged or plugged up with debris, airflow is limited, causing heat to remain in the air vents. This airflow limitation can cause a vehicle to over-heat. Check the fan fins occasionally to make sure they are clean and in good condition.
Signs of air conditioning problems:
• If your carpet is wet on hot, humid day that is good indication that your A/C drain might be clogged. When the A/C drain is working properly you will see a good amount of water dripping on the ground under the vehicle when it’s in park.
• Any vibration or unusual noise when you turn the fan on could imply debris in the fan. (Mice like to make a nest in the fan).
• A reduced amount of air coming out of the vents probably means that the A/C’s evaporator is freezing up. This particularly happens after driving for awhile.
• Mold or mildew can grow in the evaporator of your A/C. To check if you have mold or mildew growing, turn on your fan, and if you smell a musty or mildew odor, you should check it out.
You can reduce mold and mildew by turning the A/C recirculation switch off when you park your vehicle. If your vehicle doesn’t have a recirculation switch, turn the A/C switch away from the “Max Air” position every time you shut your engine off. Some vehicles will still develop a musty odor, but many service departments offer an evaporator cleaning produce to get rid of the smell.
Most people wonder if running the A/C down the road is fuel efficient. Yes, air conditioner design these days are pretty efficient.
If you discover a problem with your vehicle’s A/C, take the vehicle to a trusted mechanic technician.
Check the drive belt under the hood for wear, cracks and/or even stretches. The drive belt makes the A/C turn, and that keeps the cooling refrigerant circulating like it should. If the drive belt is bad, the belt could slip or break causing the compressor to stop.
The drive belt and compressor are sometimes difficult to locate, particularly in newer vehicles with covers and components that hide them. A mechanic technician can help you locate the belt and compressor next time you take your vehicle to the shop.
The A/C condenser is positioned in front of the vehicle’s radiator, which looks like a mini radiator. Refrigerant goes though the condenser and air flow across its cooling fins, removing heat from the circulating refrigerant.
If the fan fins ever become damaged or plugged up with debris, airflow is limited, causing heat to remain in the air vents. This airflow limitation can cause a vehicle to over-heat. Check the fan fins occasionally to make sure they are clean and in good condition.
Signs of air conditioning problems:
• If your carpet is wet on hot, humid day that is good indication that your A/C drain might be clogged. When the A/C drain is working properly you will see a good amount of water dripping on the ground under the vehicle when it’s in park.
• Any vibration or unusual noise when you turn the fan on could imply debris in the fan. (Mice like to make a nest in the fan).
• A reduced amount of air coming out of the vents probably means that the A/C’s evaporator is freezing up. This particularly happens after driving for awhile.
• Mold or mildew can grow in the evaporator of your A/C. To check if you have mold or mildew growing, turn on your fan, and if you smell a musty or mildew odor, you should check it out.
You can reduce mold and mildew by turning the A/C recirculation switch off when you park your vehicle. If your vehicle doesn’t have a recirculation switch, turn the A/C switch away from the “Max Air” position every time you shut your engine off. Some vehicles will still develop a musty odor, but many service departments offer an evaporator cleaning produce to get rid of the smell.
Most people wonder if running the A/C down the road is fuel efficient. Yes, air conditioner design these days are pretty efficient.
If you discover a problem with your vehicle’s A/C, take the vehicle to a trusted mechanic technician.
Wednesday, July 02, 2008
Tire Pressure and Gas Mileage
Did you know that keeping your tires at the recommended pressure could improve your fuel economy?
Let’s say the correct tire pressure on your tires is suppose to be 35 psi, according to the tire sticker in the inside of the door. If 35 psi is in your tire that means that six square inches of you tire is touching the ground, the way the tire was designed. Now let say some air was let out of the tire and there’s now 30 psi in the tire, eight square inches are now touching the road. Since your tire is like a balloon, the more air you have on the inside, the rounder and more firm your tire becomes. Having eight square inches touch the ground would consume more gas than having six square inches on the ground because it’s harder to turn a tire that is flatter, which makes your engine work harder.
Filling you tires with the correct tire pressure makes your engine run easier and can improve you fuel by three to four miles per gallon. That’s at least 36 more miles to the average tank, and 1,872 more miles in one year. You can check to see what is the correct tire pressure for your tire by checking the tire sticker on the inside of the driver’s door, owner’s manual or on the tire itself.
Let’s say the correct tire pressure on your tires is suppose to be 35 psi, according to the tire sticker in the inside of the door. If 35 psi is in your tire that means that six square inches of you tire is touching the ground, the way the tire was designed. Now let say some air was let out of the tire and there’s now 30 psi in the tire, eight square inches are now touching the road. Since your tire is like a balloon, the more air you have on the inside, the rounder and more firm your tire becomes. Having eight square inches touch the ground would consume more gas than having six square inches on the ground because it’s harder to turn a tire that is flatter, which makes your engine work harder.
Filling you tires with the correct tire pressure makes your engine run easier and can improve you fuel by three to four miles per gallon. That’s at least 36 more miles to the average tank, and 1,872 more miles in one year. You can check to see what is the correct tire pressure for your tire by checking the tire sticker on the inside of the driver’s door, owner’s manual or on the tire itself.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Summer Maintenance
Summer is upon us, and for most it means summer vacations, road trips and just the typical summer driving. Before you start traveling this summer, you may want to spend some time going over this summer maintenance checklist. This checklist can help you stay on the road instead on the side of the road, and most importantly out of a mechanic shop.
Heat is one of the biggest enemies on your vehicle. Fortunately vehicles are built to handle the heat that extends over 100 degrees. That is, if they are maintained properly. The two most important things to take care of when seasons change are oil and coolant. Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles, depending on the oil you use. The coolant in a radiator doesn’t last forever, the radiator should be flushed every 60,000 miles. Fresh oil and coolant can help keep your engine cooler. If any of these two fluids are low or old, heat buildup is predictable.
Other things to check before summer traveling:
Clean Air Filter: Air filter should be checked and blown out with an air gun every time you check oil. After you blow out all the dust, hold the air filter up to a good source of light. If you can see light through the air filter, it does not need to be replaced. If you can’t see light through the air filter, it’s time to replace the filter.
Check Tires: Check all four tires of your automobile, make sure the tread depth of the tires is good for driving in the rain. Also check the air pressure in your tires, you can find the recommended amount of pressure on the inside of the driver’s door, in the owners manual or on the side of the tire. Look on the inside of the driver’s side door or in the owners manual first.
Check Wiper Blades: It’s important to have good windshield wiper blades for the summer rain, winter weather can do a number on them.
Inspect Brakes: Brakes on any vehicle should be inspected at every oil change to keep you always safe. Also it’s important to check the brake fluid. A mechanic technician can assist you in this process.
Check the Battery: Winter weather can also cause battery corrosion. Check your battery posts and cables for any corrosion to make sure that you can start up right away.
Check All Lights: You may not notice a light bulb(s) out on your vehicle. Now would a good time to go through all the lights on your vehicle. Have someone assist you in this process, it’s a lot easier. Check the headlights, blinkers, brakes lights, license plate lights and reversed lights. Checking these lights will not only keep you safe, it will prevent you from getting a ticket.
Heat is one of the biggest enemies on your vehicle. Fortunately vehicles are built to handle the heat that extends over 100 degrees. That is, if they are maintained properly. The two most important things to take care of when seasons change are oil and coolant. Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles, depending on the oil you use. The coolant in a radiator doesn’t last forever, the radiator should be flushed every 60,000 miles. Fresh oil and coolant can help keep your engine cooler. If any of these two fluids are low or old, heat buildup is predictable.
Other things to check before summer traveling:
Clean Air Filter: Air filter should be checked and blown out with an air gun every time you check oil. After you blow out all the dust, hold the air filter up to a good source of light. If you can see light through the air filter, it does not need to be replaced. If you can’t see light through the air filter, it’s time to replace the filter.
Check Tires: Check all four tires of your automobile, make sure the tread depth of the tires is good for driving in the rain. Also check the air pressure in your tires, you can find the recommended amount of pressure on the inside of the driver’s door, in the owners manual or on the side of the tire. Look on the inside of the driver’s side door or in the owners manual first.
Check Wiper Blades: It’s important to have good windshield wiper blades for the summer rain, winter weather can do a number on them.
Inspect Brakes: Brakes on any vehicle should be inspected at every oil change to keep you always safe. Also it’s important to check the brake fluid. A mechanic technician can assist you in this process.
Check the Battery: Winter weather can also cause battery corrosion. Check your battery posts and cables for any corrosion to make sure that you can start up right away.
Check All Lights: You may not notice a light bulb(s) out on your vehicle. Now would a good time to go through all the lights on your vehicle. Have someone assist you in this process, it’s a lot easier. Check the headlights, blinkers, brakes lights, license plate lights and reversed lights. Checking these lights will not only keep you safe, it will prevent you from getting a ticket.
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
Driving off Road in Water and Mud
The transmission, transfer case and front and rear differentials needs to be vented in your truck. The vents balance changes in air pressure as temperatures go up and down when driving on roads. If you’re off-road driving and get water in those vents, that’s were you start having problems. Water that gets in those vents, contaminates the lubricants that protect the bearings and gear parts and can lead to damage. Keeping water out of the vents is easy; just use these techniques to set up your truck for off road driving.
Elevate the Vents
Before you go off-roading, attach tubing to vents that most likely get water in them and extend them to a high location on your truck. A rubber hose, like a vacuum hose, can be use for the tubing.
Before you begin, locate the vents to figure out if each vent is a tube or a cap-type vent before buying supplies. The length of tubing for all vents depends on the way your truck set up, usually 12-15 feet is enough.
Tube-type Vents
The tube-type vents have a circular ending that it is easy to connect with a rubber hose that fits snug up to the vent. Each hose need to be securely fastened to the vents with a hose clamp. Don’t cut the tubing until you know for sure you have enough hose to route it upwards to where it needs to go.
Cap-type Vents
Cap-type vents are a mushroom-shaped vent that usually screw-in. Remove the cap that is on the vent by unscrewing it, take the cap into an auto parts store, and buy a nipple-vent with the same thread size and pitch. Replace the cap with the new nipple vent.
Buy a rubber hose that fit snugly over the new nipple-vent, and secure each location with a small hose clamp. Remember, leave enough hose for length.
Routing the Tubes
Transmission and Transfer Case Vents
1. Route the hoses from the transmission and transfer case, along the frame or body to the firewall.
2. Secure the horses with clamps of wire ties along the route as necessary.
3. Bring the hoses to the upper area of the firewall and secure again, leaving 4-5 inch tail.
4. Bend the tail into a downward curve and secure it near its end to keep the curve intact. Check to make sure the hose isn't pinched shut along the curve.
Front Differential Vent
1. Route the hose from the front differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube up the engine side of the radiator for support, attaching it as high as possible with a clamp or wire-ties.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Rear Differential Vent
1. Route the tube from the rear differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube to the front of the truck bed, then up between the bed and the cab to a point where you can secure it to the bed with a wire-tie.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Check All Tubing
• Check the tubing to make sure it's free of kinks and positioned away from hot exhaust or engine parts. Now you're ready to go through creeks and mud holes with very little chance of water entering the vents.
• Remember that water can enter components through other routes, so be sure to check the color of your differential grease and transmission fluid after each water excursion.
Detecting Water:
• Axle grease turns light brown--like chocolate milk--when it's mixed with water.
• Automatic transmission fluid turns pink when mixed with water.
Most manufacturers recommend you check the wheel bearings if you've been in water deeper than the hub. Re-pack the bearings if there's any sign of water entry.
Elevate the Vents
Before you go off-roading, attach tubing to vents that most likely get water in them and extend them to a high location on your truck. A rubber hose, like a vacuum hose, can be use for the tubing.
Before you begin, locate the vents to figure out if each vent is a tube or a cap-type vent before buying supplies. The length of tubing for all vents depends on the way your truck set up, usually 12-15 feet is enough.
Tube-type Vents
The tube-type vents have a circular ending that it is easy to connect with a rubber hose that fits snug up to the vent. Each hose need to be securely fastened to the vents with a hose clamp. Don’t cut the tubing until you know for sure you have enough hose to route it upwards to where it needs to go.
Cap-type Vents
Cap-type vents are a mushroom-shaped vent that usually screw-in. Remove the cap that is on the vent by unscrewing it, take the cap into an auto parts store, and buy a nipple-vent with the same thread size and pitch. Replace the cap with the new nipple vent.
Buy a rubber hose that fit snugly over the new nipple-vent, and secure each location with a small hose clamp. Remember, leave enough hose for length.
Routing the Tubes
Transmission and Transfer Case Vents
1. Route the hoses from the transmission and transfer case, along the frame or body to the firewall.
2. Secure the horses with clamps of wire ties along the route as necessary.
3. Bring the hoses to the upper area of the firewall and secure again, leaving 4-5 inch tail.
4. Bend the tail into a downward curve and secure it near its end to keep the curve intact. Check to make sure the hose isn't pinched shut along the curve.
Front Differential Vent
1. Route the hose from the front differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube up the engine side of the radiator for support, attaching it as high as possible with a clamp or wire-ties.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Rear Differential Vent
1. Route the tube from the rear differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube to the front of the truck bed, then up between the bed and the cab to a point where you can secure it to the bed with a wire-tie.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Check All Tubing
• Check the tubing to make sure it's free of kinks and positioned away from hot exhaust or engine parts. Now you're ready to go through creeks and mud holes with very little chance of water entering the vents.
• Remember that water can enter components through other routes, so be sure to check the color of your differential grease and transmission fluid after each water excursion.
Detecting Water:
• Axle grease turns light brown--like chocolate milk--when it's mixed with water.
• Automatic transmission fluid turns pink when mixed with water.
Most manufacturers recommend you check the wheel bearings if you've been in water deeper than the hub. Re-pack the bearings if there's any sign of water entry.
Monday, April 21, 2008
Improving Fuel Economy (part 2)
Maintaining, fixing any mechanical problems that become visible and keeping a vehicle properly tuned will increase the fuel economy as much as 4%, depending on what kind of repair is done to the vehicle. Repairing a major mechanical problem, such as a faulty oxygen sensor can increase the fuel economy as much as 40%.
A clean air filter can improve a vehicle’s fuel economy by 10%. When it’s time to change oil in a vehicle, that’s a good time to check the air filter. If the filter isn’t very dirty, just blow the filter with a blow gun. If the filter is clogged or really dirty, then the filter needs to be replaced. A clean air filter will not only saves gas, it protects the engine as well.
Keeping your tires on a vehicle properly inflated can also improve fuel economy by 3%. Most vehicles have a tire pressure chart inside the driver’s side door that has the proper tire pressure for each tire on that vehicle. If there’s no chart inside the door, look inside owner’s manual, on the side of tire, or ask your mechanic. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
Using the recommended grade of motor oil that the manufacture suggests for a particular vehicle can increase fuel economy. For example, using 10W-30 motor oil in an engine designed to use 5W-30 can lower your gas mileage by 1-2 percent. Using 5W-30 in an engine designed for 5W-20 can lower your gas mileage by 1-1.5 percent. The owner manual suggests special oil grades for different weather conditions. For the best results, refer to the vehicle’s oil manual. Also, look for motor oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API performance symbol to be sure it contains friction-reducing additives.
A clean air filter can improve a vehicle’s fuel economy by 10%. When it’s time to change oil in a vehicle, that’s a good time to check the air filter. If the filter isn’t very dirty, just blow the filter with a blow gun. If the filter is clogged or really dirty, then the filter needs to be replaced. A clean air filter will not only saves gas, it protects the engine as well.
Keeping your tires on a vehicle properly inflated can also improve fuel economy by 3%. Most vehicles have a tire pressure chart inside the driver’s side door that has the proper tire pressure for each tire on that vehicle. If there’s no chart inside the door, look inside owner’s manual, on the side of tire, or ask your mechanic. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
Using the recommended grade of motor oil that the manufacture suggests for a particular vehicle can increase fuel economy. For example, using 10W-30 motor oil in an engine designed to use 5W-30 can lower your gas mileage by 1-2 percent. Using 5W-30 in an engine designed for 5W-20 can lower your gas mileage by 1-1.5 percent. The owner manual suggests special oil grades for different weather conditions. For the best results, refer to the vehicle’s oil manual. Also, look for motor oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API performance symbol to be sure it contains friction-reducing additives.
Thursday, April 03, 2008
Tips For Improving Fuel Economy
Driving More Efficiently
1. Drive Sensibly- Speeding, accelerating quickly and constant braking wastes gas. In another words aggressive driving decreases you fuel economy by thirty-three percent.
2. Observe the Speed Limit- Each vehicle starts consuming fuel more rapidly at a curtain speed level. At 60 mph the fuel economy usually begins to decrease rapidly. The rule of thumb is for every 5 mph you go over 60 mph it is likely that you’ll be paying an extra $ 0.20 per gallon for gas.
3. Remove Excess Weight- The heavier your vehicle is, the lower your fuel economy is going to be. According to fueleconomy.com, an extra 100 pounds in/on your vehicle could reduce your miles per gallon up to 2 percent. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones. So, unload any unnecessary item in/or your vehicle.
4. Avoid Excessive Idling- When any vehicle idles, it receive a 0 mph for fuel economy.
5. Use Cruise Control- Using cruise control on highways and interstates helps ti maintain a constant that will improve a vehicle’s fuel economy.
6. Use Overdrive Gear- When driving on highways and interstates, it is important to put a vehicle into an overdrive gear or overdrive feature, if your vehicle has the option. The overdrive feature not only slowsa an engine down, but it increases a vehicle’s fuel economy.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
How To Get Salt Off Your Vehicle Before Damage & Rust Sets In
After driving in the winter conditions, you probably have salt under and on your vehicle. That salt on your vehicle can cause rust damage. Here tips to avoid rust on your vehicle, and to keep you vehicle in top condition:
1. Wash the exterior of your vehicle, using a power washer makes this easy. Spray between the cracks and crevices, in the wheel wells, and the vehicle’s undercarriage. After spraying thoroughly, wash the car with hot soapy water and then rise the soap off. This should be done periodically during the winter season, and one good wash when the winter season ends.
2. Once the winter season comes to an end, you can use matching touch-up paint to repair any chips or scratches if necessary. A body shop can help with this process.
3. Clean the engine compartment after covering all electric components with plastic. A power wash works great for this process.
4. Apply a coat of wax, a type of wax that contains a mild abrasive that will remove the film left by salt or other substance. This can be done periodically also.
5. Check tires for cuts and abrasions. Replace tires if necessary.
6. Lube all suspension fittings. Lube hood hinges, locks, and latches. Check your owner’s manual for lubricant recommendations.
7. Examine your brakes to make sure there’s plenty of material on brake pads and shoes. Look for components that are rusted or stuck due to salt corrosion.
8. Check your windshield wiper blades, since snow and ice are hard on them.
Other Tips
1. Don’t touch a vehicle with a wash mitt or a brush until you’ve used a hose to remove the visible dirt.
2. If a vehicle has wheel covers, remove them before washing to make it easier to clean the wheels and the back side of covers.
3. If you use Rain-X or a similar product on your windshield, apply a fresh coat when you’re finished.
4. A “touchless” type of car wash, is good alternative if you don’t have the place or equipment to wash your vehicle by hand. Be sure the car wash can wash your undercarriage and wheels, since where most of the salt built occurs.
1. Wash the exterior of your vehicle, using a power washer makes this easy. Spray between the cracks and crevices, in the wheel wells, and the vehicle’s undercarriage. After spraying thoroughly, wash the car with hot soapy water and then rise the soap off. This should be done periodically during the winter season, and one good wash when the winter season ends.
2. Once the winter season comes to an end, you can use matching touch-up paint to repair any chips or scratches if necessary. A body shop can help with this process.
3. Clean the engine compartment after covering all electric components with plastic. A power wash works great for this process.
4. Apply a coat of wax, a type of wax that contains a mild abrasive that will remove the film left by salt or other substance. This can be done periodically also.
5. Check tires for cuts and abrasions. Replace tires if necessary.
6. Lube all suspension fittings. Lube hood hinges, locks, and latches. Check your owner’s manual for lubricant recommendations.
7. Examine your brakes to make sure there’s plenty of material on brake pads and shoes. Look for components that are rusted or stuck due to salt corrosion.
8. Check your windshield wiper blades, since snow and ice are hard on them.
Other Tips
1. Don’t touch a vehicle with a wash mitt or a brush until you’ve used a hose to remove the visible dirt.
2. If a vehicle has wheel covers, remove them before washing to make it easier to clean the wheels and the back side of covers.
3. If you use Rain-X or a similar product on your windshield, apply a fresh coat when you’re finished.
4. A “touchless” type of car wash, is good alternative if you don’t have the place or equipment to wash your vehicle by hand. Be sure the car wash can wash your undercarriage and wheels, since where most of the salt built occurs.
Monday, February 11, 2008
5 Tips about Snow Tires
1. Snow tires, also called winter tires, are specially design tread patterns that dig down and bite into snow and ice. Snow tires also have softer rubber compounds that maintain their flexibility in the cold weather, allowing the tire to get a better grip on the road. Regular tires tend to get hard and fragile in cold temperatures, and can’t grip the road as well. Tire grip is important in the winter months, not just to avoid getting stuck, but to a better grip on the road for stopping and steering. Any vehicle’s safety features, like anti-lock brakes, electronic stability control, and all-wheel-drove etc, won’t work properly if the tire can not keep a grip on the road.
2. All-weather or all-season tires are not necessarily snow tires. These tires can handle dry roads, rain, and mud. All-season tires are normally made from harder material that doesn’t grip the road as well in cold temperatures.
3. If someone was going to put snow tires on their vehicle, they should install snow tires on all four wheels. Just putting two snow tires on the drive wheels is not a good idea. If snow tires were put on the front of a front-wheel drive vehicle, the back tires would have less grip than the front tires, causing to spin out when braking and cornering. Also, if winter tires were installed on the back wheels of a rear drive car and not the front wheels, there’s not much of a grip for steering. This could cause your vehicle to go straight ahead, even if you just turned the steering wheel. It is important to install all four tires.
4. Snow tires can be left on year round, but they make noise going down the road. More important the softer compounds tread wear out faster in warmer temperatures. By the time that the snow arrives next winter, the tread would be worn off and would not grip on the tire to dig into snow and ice. When the snow is gone for winter, snow tires should be replaced, and regular tires should be put on. They don’t have to be all-season tire, just some good tires to get around in rain and that provides a smoother, quieter ride.
5. Mounting and balancing snow tires at the beginning and end of every winter season can be annoying. There are a couple of things that can be done to make this process easier and inexpensive. An extra set of wheels, rims, can be brought at a salvage yard to be use for your snow tires. As long as the rims have the same diameter and bolt pattern, they will work. Perhaps you may want to purchase a set of aftermarket wheels. Keep the original wheels and use them for your snow tires.
2. All-weather or all-season tires are not necessarily snow tires. These tires can handle dry roads, rain, and mud. All-season tires are normally made from harder material that doesn’t grip the road as well in cold temperatures.
3. If someone was going to put snow tires on their vehicle, they should install snow tires on all four wheels. Just putting two snow tires on the drive wheels is not a good idea. If snow tires were put on the front of a front-wheel drive vehicle, the back tires would have less grip than the front tires, causing to spin out when braking and cornering. Also, if winter tires were installed on the back wheels of a rear drive car and not the front wheels, there’s not much of a grip for steering. This could cause your vehicle to go straight ahead, even if you just turned the steering wheel. It is important to install all four tires.
4. Snow tires can be left on year round, but they make noise going down the road. More important the softer compounds tread wear out faster in warmer temperatures. By the time that the snow arrives next winter, the tread would be worn off and would not grip on the tire to dig into snow and ice. When the snow is gone for winter, snow tires should be replaced, and regular tires should be put on. They don’t have to be all-season tire, just some good tires to get around in rain and that provides a smoother, quieter ride.
5. Mounting and balancing snow tires at the beginning and end of every winter season can be annoying. There are a couple of things that can be done to make this process easier and inexpensive. An extra set of wheels, rims, can be brought at a salvage yard to be use for your snow tires. As long as the rims have the same diameter and bolt pattern, they will work. Perhaps you may want to purchase a set of aftermarket wheels. Keep the original wheels and use them for your snow tires.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Important Winterizing Car Tips
Winterizing your car is VERY important when that area gets to be 20°, 30° or even 40° below zero, similar to South Dakota, Minnesota and other cold neighboring states.
Here are tips some to help you and your vehicle survive the winter:
1. Your anti-freeze is the first thing to check. Many anti-freezes are ethylene glycol based fluid that has a low freezing point when mixed with water and a high boiling point, which makes an outstanding coolant for any vehicle. Anti-freeze is usually a bight green color. Other colors of anti-freeze can be either red, black or gold. The red should not be confused with Dex-Cool anti-freeze used in General Motor’s vehicles. Dex-Cool is for GM products only, and should not be mixed with other anti-freezes. GM rates Dex-Cool to last ten years or 100,000 miles before requiring a change.
Any type of anti-freeze should be change every two years or 30,000 miles, which ever comes first. The chemicals in the ethylene glycol that lubricates the water pump and inhibits corrosion in the engine, wears out and needs to be replace.
2. Your motor oil should be change, from season to season, depending what brand oil you use. If you change oil yourself, most oil companies print their summer and winter grade oil recommendations on their oil bottle or package. You should also check the Owners’ Manual of your vehicle for recommendations. The winter grade oil is lighter that makes your vehicle start easier in the cold. A local mechanic will recommend a oil grade, if you are still in doubt. Don’t forget to change the oil filter.
If you have your oil change by a mechanic, they will recommend a different oil grade.
3. When driving on highway a road that has a lot of salt and sand dumped on it, it takes ten second to cover your windshield with road debris if another vehicle passes you. This is why it is important to have a good set of windshield wiper blades, and check that your washer fluid sprays out properly before the winter season hits. Most washer fluids can stand ten degrees below zero, which is good enough for most part of the country. For South Dakota, Minnesota and other cold areas, that’s not going to cut it. We need to use something a little lower, which can found at retail stores, auto parts stores or your local mechanic shop.
4. The battery and alternator need to be working properly. Especially in the winter season, the battery needs the extra amps for a cold engine. Tips for keeping your battery clean and working properly: Clean the top of the battery with baking soda and water. Dirt and “blue snow” will slowly drain your battery and the colder it gets, the faster it will drain. When its nice and clean, spray a coat of terminal protector or put a layer of white lithium grease on the terminals to keep them clean and air away from them.
5. To prepare your engine for the cold wither months: You should get a vehicle tune-up, if it hasn’t been done in a while. The cold temperatures make it hard to ignite the fuel when starting, with a fresh set of spark plugs, new distributor cap, rotor and ignition wires as needed, your chances of your car starting without flooding greatly improves. Also look at the belts and hoses as well. Winter driving puts more stress on your engine than summer driving.
It is important to perform those winter maintenance tips so your vehicle(s) last a longer and healthy life. A local mechanic can help you accomplish these tasks.
Here are tips some to help you and your vehicle survive the winter:
1. Your anti-freeze is the first thing to check. Many anti-freezes are ethylene glycol based fluid that has a low freezing point when mixed with water and a high boiling point, which makes an outstanding coolant for any vehicle. Anti-freeze is usually a bight green color. Other colors of anti-freeze can be either red, black or gold. The red should not be confused with Dex-Cool anti-freeze used in General Motor’s vehicles. Dex-Cool is for GM products only, and should not be mixed with other anti-freezes. GM rates Dex-Cool to last ten years or 100,000 miles before requiring a change.
Any type of anti-freeze should be change every two years or 30,000 miles, which ever comes first. The chemicals in the ethylene glycol that lubricates the water pump and inhibits corrosion in the engine, wears out and needs to be replace.
2. Your motor oil should be change, from season to season, depending what brand oil you use. If you change oil yourself, most oil companies print their summer and winter grade oil recommendations on their oil bottle or package. You should also check the Owners’ Manual of your vehicle for recommendations. The winter grade oil is lighter that makes your vehicle start easier in the cold. A local mechanic will recommend a oil grade, if you are still in doubt. Don’t forget to change the oil filter.
If you have your oil change by a mechanic, they will recommend a different oil grade.
3. When driving on highway a road that has a lot of salt and sand dumped on it, it takes ten second to cover your windshield with road debris if another vehicle passes you. This is why it is important to have a good set of windshield wiper blades, and check that your washer fluid sprays out properly before the winter season hits. Most washer fluids can stand ten degrees below zero, which is good enough for most part of the country. For South Dakota, Minnesota and other cold areas, that’s not going to cut it. We need to use something a little lower, which can found at retail stores, auto parts stores or your local mechanic shop.
4. The battery and alternator need to be working properly. Especially in the winter season, the battery needs the extra amps for a cold engine. Tips for keeping your battery clean and working properly: Clean the top of the battery with baking soda and water. Dirt and “blue snow” will slowly drain your battery and the colder it gets, the faster it will drain. When its nice and clean, spray a coat of terminal protector or put a layer of white lithium grease on the terminals to keep them clean and air away from them.
5. To prepare your engine for the cold wither months: You should get a vehicle tune-up, if it hasn’t been done in a while. The cold temperatures make it hard to ignite the fuel when starting, with a fresh set of spark plugs, new distributor cap, rotor and ignition wires as needed, your chances of your car starting without flooding greatly improves. Also look at the belts and hoses as well. Winter driving puts more stress on your engine than summer driving.
It is important to perform those winter maintenance tips so your vehicle(s) last a longer and healthy life. A local mechanic can help you accomplish these tasks.
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