OVERWEG REPAIR, LLC

Website That Knows Your Vehicle

2009-01-19T11:40:00.002-06:00

Have you ever been to or called a parts store to order part(s) for your car or truck, and they asked you about the engine and if its a single or dual overhead cam?
This a common question that parts stores ask a lot and most people don’t know right off. To avoid calling back or going back to the parts store, you can open the hood and sometimes on the engine it has SOHC or DOHC? SOHC means Single Overhead Cam and DOHC means Double Overhead Cam. I will explain the difference between the two in a later blog.

If there’s no SOHC or DOHC on the engine, the Pronto.net's VIN decoder can tell you that information. All you need is the vehicle’s VIN handy, go toPronto.net's VIN decoder, type in the VIN and hit “Submit.” It will provide you with some general information about the vehicle, like the manufacturer, assembly plant, year, make, model, body style, GVWR, (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.) The site also tells you about the vehicle’s engine (is it DOHC or SOHC), brake system, etc. The
Pronto.net web site is FREE!!!

This information can be printed out so the next time you go to or call the parts store, it will handy.

Roadside Emergency Kit

2009-01-08T09:19:00.000-06:00

Do you have a roadside emergency kit? It’s good to have one for your vehicle in case you have a flat tire, get stuck, your vehicle stalls, or etc… A Roadside Emergency Kit can be bought at department stores like Wal-Mart or Menards or you can order one from the internet. A good kit can be bought for $20-$30.

A homemade Roadside Emergency can easily be made. You might have some item already in your home, otherwise you can purchase them at a store. A good Roadside Emergency Kit include:

• Tow Rope
• Jumper Cables
• Tire Puncture Repair
• Funnel or Cone
• Flashlight
• Batteries
• Gloves
• Emergency Blanket
• Rain Poncho
• Help Flags
• Plastic Zip Ties
• Plastic Water Bag
• First Aid Kit

Some other things you may want to include:
• Water or something to Drink
• Food or Snacks
• Warm, heavy blanket
• Hats and Mitten
• Tools, a socket set

Even through you have an AAA, Cross County, On-Star or etc… membership, you could be waiting a half of hour to one hour before they can arrive to rescue you. In a situation where it’s near or below zero and you have to wait a while, you should consider having these items in your vehicle just in case:

• Warm Blanket
• Water or something to drink
• Food or Snacks
• Hats and Mittens
• First Aid Kit

Roadside Emergency Kits are a valuable item to have in you vehicle, they can help you get back on the road and keep you safe. I hope that nobody is out in the cold for a long time, but just in case you are put a warm heavy blanket in the vehicle before winter hits.

Zero And Below Temperatures

2008-12-19T16:28:00.001-06:00

Is your car starting hard or not at all in these near zero or below mornings? Does your diesel gel up? We’ve been seeing temperatures near zero and below the past couple of weeks. Here at Overweg Repair, LLC, we’ve been busy with: Jump-starting vehicles because their battery is weak or dead. Pulling diesel trucks in the shop so they can warm-up because they’ve gelled-up. Here are some tips to keep you cars and trucks on the road instead of in the shop:

The cold weather can be brutal on your battery, it’s important to have a good battery for the winter. If you have had your battery for a while, there are some things you can check. The first and easiest thing is to check the posts, if there’s any white corrosion. The posts can be cleaned with a wire brush. When you put the cables back on, make sure they are on the right posts nice and tight. A battery should be tested if you start having problems with it. A mechanic can help you check and test your battery.

When it’s below freezing, leave your vehicle warm-up three or four minutes before you start driving off. That’s not only good for your battery, but its good for all the components on your car or truck. If the temperature drops below ten degrees, it’s good to leave you vehicle idle in neutral when you are warming your car or truck up. This warms-up the transmission fluid. If you have a remote start or start your vehicle, and then decide to not to go, you should leave your vehicle running awhile to recharge your battery, so the next time the vehicle is started you won’t have a weak or dead battery.

Anti-freeze is another thing to check on when it’s below zero, it could freeze. Anti-freeze should be between 30-40 degrees below zero when it’s the radiator. You can buy an anti-freeze tester at a hardware store. A mechanic can assist you checking your anti-freeze.

Diesel engines should be plugged-in over night to help them start in the morning, like gas engines. A diesel engine that will start in the morning doesn’t necessarily mean that it won’t gel-up a mile down the road, unless it had number one diesel the tank. Number one diesel must be used in all diesel engines during the winter months to prevent them from gelling-up. Number one diesel won’t gel-up until forty degrees below zero, whereas number two will gel-up at twenty above zero. Even though number two diesel is about 10-15 cents cheaper than number one, running number one this winter would save you time out of the shop and money on fuel filters.

When a diesel truck is gelled-up, there are only a couple of things you can do to make it start again. Replace the fuel filters and pour some power service diesel 911 into you tanks. If you are able to get your truck pulled into a heated building or shop, and let it thaw out for a hour or two that’s a plus.

By keeping your battery clean and using number one diesel, you’ll spend more time on the road and less in the shop.

Tires (Continued)

2008-11-13T14:43:00.000-06:00

Last article talked about different types of tires and the letters associated with each type. This article focuses on the numbers on the sidewalls of tires. Each set of numbers means something specific about a tire.

Take P225/50R16 91S for example, the “P” means passenger tire, as mentioned in the last article. The “225” describes the section width of a tire. Section width basically tells how wide the tire is, and measure in millimeters, not inches. Section width is determined by the distance between the widest part of the outside sidewall across to the widest part of the inner sidewall when mounted on the correct wheel width. 225mm can be converted into inches by dividing 225 by 25.4 ( the number of millimeter in one inch.) The result is 8.86 inches wide.

The “50” in P225/50R16 91S describes the tire’s sidewall height, from edge of the rim the top of the tread. The sidewall’s height is referred as the tire’s aspect ratio, profile or series. The “50” is a percentage of the section width, which means the sidewall height or aspect ratio is 50% of 225mm. Like section width, the section profile is measured by millimeters. To convert section profile to inches, you divide 225 by 25.4, which will tell the section width in inches. Then take 50% of the section width in inches to get the end result of 4.43” tall. Now take P255/70R16 for example, you would first convert the section width to inches, which is 8.86”. Then take 70% of the result to end up with 6.20” for the sidewall profile.

The “R” in P225/50R16 tells you about the tire’s internal construction. The tire’s internal construction is designed three ways. The “R” stands for radial construction meaning the tire’s body plies run parallel to each other around the tire. Body plies are referred to as a rubber-coated layer of fabric containing cords that run parallel to each other, extends from bead to bead and goes between the inner liner and belts or tread. The number of plies determines how strong the tire is. Radial tires are the most popular tire being sold today. They are used for cars, SUV’s and light pickup trucks.

If there’s a “D” in the tire size, like 225/50D16, it means that the internal body plies are crisscross diagonally and has a “bias ply” construction. These types tires are stronger and able to carry a heavier load. Bias ply construction tires can be used for light trucks and spare tires.

In 225/50B16, the “B” means that the internal body plies are not only crisscross diagonally, but that have reinforced with belt under the tread area. This type of construction is called “Belted.” Belted construction tires are practically extinct.

Bias ply and belted construction are not designed for speed where as the radial tires are. For more information on the internal construction of tires, go to http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires.shtml.

The “16” in P225/50R16 refers to the diameter of the wheel (or the rim) and tire. Tire and wheel diameters are expressed in inches. There are different wheel and tire sizes, anywhere from 8” to 28” that fit on all types of vehicles, trailers and trucks.

Some wheels and tires will have diameters in halves, like R16.5, R17.5 R19.5. These tires are used on some heavy-duty trailers and light trucks and cargo vans.

When a tire has a 91S after the tire size, like P225/50R16 91S. 91S stands for the tire’s service description. Service description refers to the tire's Load Index and Speed Rating. Service Descriptions are required on all speed rated (except for Z-speed rated) tires manufactured since 1991. For more information on Service Descriptions, go to http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35.

The tire’s DOT is a 12-digit code that is on every single tire given by the Department of Transportation. It’s way to locate a tire like a tracking number. DOT provides information like: 1st and 2nd characters are the manufacturer and plant code. 3rd and 4th characters are the tire size. Characters 5th-8th identifies the brand as well as other characteristics. 9th-12th characters: The last four numbers represent the date the tire was made. The first two numbers indicate the week and the last two numbers is the year. For example 0507, indicates the tire was made in the 5th week of 2007)

Tires

2008-10-02T12:11:00.002-05:00

When looking at a tire on a car, light truck or trailer, there’s a lot of information on that tire besides the brand and name of the tire. All the letters and number mean something specific about that tire. After reading this blog you should have a better understanding of some of the letters and numbers on a tire.

First we will begin with the size of a tire. The tire size is usually in bigger print than the rest of the letters and numbers. Take tire size P225/50R16 91S for example:

The P means that the tire is a “P-metric” size that was intended for a passenger vehicle. Passenger vehicles are classified as cars, mini vans, sport utility vehicles and light trucks, like ¼ and ½ ton trucks. The P-metric size tires started in the 1970s and are the most commonly used tire today.

If there is no letter in front of the three-digit numeric portion of a tire size, for example 225/50R16 91S, it means that the tire is a “Metric” size, also known as “Euro-Metric”. Euro-Metric sizes originated in Europe. These sizes have the same dimension as P-metric sizes, but P-metric sizes tend to handle more weight.

The “T” in T125/90D16 98M means that the tire is a Temporary Spare, also known as space saver or mini spare. Temporary Spare was designed to be temporarily used only until a flat tire can be repaired or replaced.

The “LT” in LT245/75R16 means that the tire is Light Truck-metric size. LT tires are designed to use on vehicles that are capable of carrying heavy cargo or towing large cargo. Three-quarter or one ton full-size pickups usually have light truck tires on them, as well as some big SUVs and full-size vans. Tires that are marked with the "LT" label are the "little brothers" of 18-wheel tractor-trailer tires and are designed to provide large capacity to accept the additional stresses of carrying heavy cargo.

If a tire size ends in “LT”, 7.50R16LT, that means the tire is a earlier “Numeric”, “Wide Base” or “Floatation”. For carrying or towing heavy cargo loads, these are called Numeric sizes. For 16.5-inch diameter or wider are known as Wide Base sizes. Flotation sizes are used to keep control of a vehicle on loose dirt or sandy surfaces. These tires can be found on three-quarter or one ton full-size pickups, big SUVs and full-vans.

In 195/70R15C, the “C” means Commercial tire. Commercial tires are used on full-size vans and delivery trucks that are capable of hauling heavy loads. In addition to being branded with the "C" in their size, these tires are also branded with their appropriate Service Description and "Load Range" (Load Range B, Load Range C or Load Range D). Load Range is the strength of the tire and ability to hold air pressure. Load Ranges are identified by the alphabet, in ascending order. “F” is the highest rating

The “ST” in ST225/75R15 means the tire is a Special Trailer Service size. This tire is used for boat, car and utility trailers. ST-sized tires should never be used on cars, vans or light trucks.

Hybrids: How They Work

2008-09-02T13:24:00.001-05:00

Hybrid vehicles have two or more propulsion systems, which means driving or pushing forward. Current hybrids consist of an internal combustion engine, electric motor, and battery.

Depending on the type, design, and the use of the hybrid; hybrid designs can range from operating mostly on the internal combustion engine with some assistance from the electric motor, to operating mainly on the electric motor, using the internal combustion engine only when considerable amount of power is demanded.

There are three basic types of hybrids:
• Mild: the electric motor and battery acts as an assistant to the internal combustion engine.
• Full: the two propulsion systems, the electric motor and internal combustion engine, can work independently or in conjunction with each other.
•Plug-in: the internal combustion engine only is used for as a back-up to the main rechargeable motor and battery system.

How does each type work?

The mild and full hybrid systems never have to be plugged in.

A mild hybrid system needs the internal combustion engine running at all times to drive the vehicle. The engine acts as an assistant to the electric motor. The electric motor cannot drive alone.

Unlike a mild hybrid, a full hybrid can drive only on the electric motor, without the internal combustion engine operating. However, the full hybrid is only able to operate like this under light cruising and low acceleration conditions. As soon as significant power in desired, the engine kicks-in to additional power.

A full hybrid system gets better mileage than mild hybrids, plus much more mileage in the city, since the electric motor is likely to get used the most in the city.

Plug-in hybrids are just like their name, they plug-in in to a 110-volt household current. Unlike other hybrids where the engine kicks in when more speed and power is needed, the plug-in hybrid’s engine only kicks-in when the battery charge is low and then the battery recharges. The plug-in hybrids are able to go 20 to 60 miles on their electric charge. When the vehicle is stopped and the battery needs to be recharge, it can be plugged-in and forgotten about until next time it is used.

Plug-in hybrids are not available in the car market yet.

CVT

2008-07-30T08:48:00.003-05:00

Continuously Variable Transmission, also known as CVT, is a kind of automatic transmission that produces more useable power, improves fuel economy, and gives a smoother ride than the usual automatic transmission.

CVTs and automatics both have the same controls: No clutch pedal and P-R-N-D-L style shift pattern. The difference is that an automatic has a set number of gear ratios, or speeds, usually 4, 5 or 6. With a CVT, the transmission is constantly changing with the engine speed using a pulley system. You will never feel or hear a CVT shift when driving. CVT simply raises and lowers with the engine’s speed as needed, calling up higher engine speeds (or RPMs) for better acceleration and lower RPMs for better fuel economy while cruising.

When people first drive a vehicle with a CVT, they feel unease because of the way the CVT sounds. When you step on the accelerator, the engine races as it would with a slipping clutch in a manual or a failing automatic transmission. This is typical for a CVT, it’s adjusting the engine speed to offer the best possible power the acceleration.

How it Works
Automatic and manual transmissions both use a gear set that uses a number of ratio, or speeds. Both transmissions have: low gears for starting out, middle gears for accelerating and passing, and high gears for fuel-efficient cruising that can be shifted by the transmission itself or the driver.

There are many different styles of CVTs. Most CVTs operate on a pair of variable-diameter, that are shaped like opposing cone, with a metal belt or chain running between them. One pulley is connected to the engine (input shaft), the other to the drive wheels (output shaft). The halves of each pulley are moveable; as the pulley halves come closer together the belt is forced to ride higher on the pulley, effectively making the pulley's diameter larger. Changing the diameter of the pulleys varies the transmission's ratio (the number of times the output shaft revolves for revolution of the engine), in the same way that a 10-speed bike routes the chain over larger or smaller gears to change the ratio. Making the input pulley smaller and the output pulley larger gives a low ratio (a large number of engine revolutions producing a small number of output revolutions) for better low-speed acceleration. As the car accelerates, the pulleys vary their diameter to lower the engine speed as car speed rises. This is the same thing a conventional automatic or manual transmission does, but while a conventional transmission changes the ratio in stages by shifting gears, the CVT continuously varies the ratio; therefore it’s named "continuously variable transmission".

Air Conditioning

2008-07-17T08:38:00.001-05:00

The summer heat is just around the corner, and before you turn on the air conditioning on this summer, there’s a couple of things to check out to ensure your A/C is working properly.

Check the drive belt under the hood for wear, cracks and/or even stretches. The drive belt makes the A/C turn, and that keeps the cooling refrigerant circulating like it should. If the drive belt is bad, the belt could slip or break causing the compressor to stop.

The drive belt and compressor are sometimes difficult to locate, particularly in newer vehicles with covers and components that hide them. A mechanic technician can help you locate the belt and compressor next time you take your vehicle to the shop.

The A/C condenser is positioned in front of the vehicle’s radiator, which looks like a mini radiator. Refrigerant goes though the condenser and air flow across its cooling fins, removing heat from the circulating refrigerant.

If the fan fins ever become damaged or plugged up with debris, airflow is limited, causing heat to remain in the air vents. This airflow limitation can cause a vehicle to over-heat. Check the fan fins occasionally to make sure they are clean and in good condition.

Signs of air conditioning problems:

• If your carpet is wet on hot, humid day that is good indication that your A/C drain might be clogged. When the A/C drain is working properly you will see a good amount of water dripping on the ground under the vehicle when it’s in park.

• Any vibration or unusual noise when you turn the fan on could imply debris in the fan. (Mice like to make a nest in the fan).

• A reduced amount of air coming out of the vents probably means that the A/C’s evaporator is freezing up. This particularly happens after driving for awhile.

• Mold or mildew can grow in the evaporator of your A/C. To check if you have mold or mildew growing, turn on your fan, and if you smell a musty or mildew odor, you should check it out.

You can reduce mold and mildew by turning the A/C recirculation switch off when you park your vehicle. If your vehicle doesn’t have a recirculation switch, turn the A/C switch away from the “Max Air” position every time you shut your engine off. Some vehicles will still develop a musty odor, but many service departments offer an evaporator cleaning produce to get rid of the smell.

Most people wonder if running the A/C down the road is fuel efficient. Yes, air conditioner design these days are pretty efficient.

If you discover a problem with your vehicle’s A/C, take the vehicle to a trusted mechanic technician.

Tire Pressure and Gas Mileage

2008-07-02T08:37:00.000-05:00

Did you know that keeping your tires at the recommended pressure could improve your fuel economy?

Let’s say the correct tire pressure on your tires is suppose to be 35 psi, according to the tire sticker in the inside of the door. If 35 psi is in your tire that means that six square inches of you tire is touching the ground, the way the tire was designed. Now let say some air was let out of the tire and there’s now 30 psi in the tire, eight square inches are now touching the road. Since your tire is like a balloon, the more air you have on the inside, the rounder and more firm your tire becomes. Having eight square inches touch the ground would consume more gas than having six square inches on the ground because it’s harder to turn a tire that is flatter, which makes your engine work harder.

Filling you tires with the correct tire pressure makes your engine run easier and can improve you fuel by three to four miles per gallon. That’s at least 36 more miles to the average tank, and 1,872 more miles in one year. You can check to see what is the correct tire pressure for your tire by checking the tire sticker on the inside of the driver’s door, owner’s manual or on the tire itself.

Summer Maintenance

2008-05-20T11:24:00.002-05:00

Summer is upon us, and for most it means summer vacations, road trips and just the typical summer driving. Before you start traveling this summer, you may want to spend some time going over this summer maintenance checklist. This checklist can help you stay on the road instead on the side of the road, and most importantly out of a mechanic shop.

Heat is one of the biggest enemies on your vehicle. Fortunately vehicles are built to handle the heat that extends over 100 degrees. That is, if they are maintained properly. The two most important things to take care of when seasons change are oil and coolant. Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles, depending on the oil you use. The coolant in a radiator doesn’t last forever, the radiator should be flushed every 60,000 miles. Fresh oil and coolant can help keep your engine cooler. If any of these two fluids are low or old, heat buildup is predictable.

Other things to check before summer traveling:

Clean Air Filter: Air filter should be checked and blown out with an air gun every time you check oil. After you blow out all the dust, hold the air filter up to a good source of light. If you can see light through the air filter, it does not need to be replaced. If you can’t see light through the air filter, it’s time to replace the filter.

Check Tires: Check all four tires of your automobile, make sure the tread depth of the tires is good for driving in the rain. Also check the air pressure in your tires, you can find the recommended amount of pressure on the inside of the driver’s door, in the owners manual or on the side of the tire. Look on the inside of the driver’s side door or in the owners manual first.

Check Wiper Blades: It’s important to have good windshield wiper blades for the summer rain, winter weather can do a number on them.

Inspect Brakes: Brakes on any vehicle should be inspected at every oil change to keep you always safe. Also it’s important to check the brake fluid. A mechanic technician can assist you in this process.

Check the Battery: Winter weather can also cause battery corrosion. Check your battery posts and cables for any corrosion to make sure that you can start up right away.

Check All Lights: You may not notice a light bulb(s) out on your vehicle. Now would a good time to go through all the lights on your vehicle. Have someone assist you in this process, it’s a lot easier. Check the headlights, blinkers, brakes lights, license plate lights and reversed lights. Checking these lights will not only keep you safe, it will prevent you from getting a ticket.

Driving off Road in Water and Mud

2008-05-06T10:20:00.002-05:00

The transmission, transfer case and front and rear differentials needs to be vented in your truck. The vents balance changes in air pressure as temperatures go up and down when driving on roads. If you’re off-road driving and get water in those vents, that’s were you start having problems. Water that gets in those vents, contaminates the lubricants that protect the bearings and gear parts and can lead to damage. Keeping water out of the vents is easy; just use these techniques to set up your truck for off road driving.

Elevate the Vents
Before you go off-roading, attach tubing to vents that most likely get water in them and extend them to a high location on your truck. A rubber hose, like a vacuum hose, can be use for the tubing.

Before you begin, locate the vents to figure out if each vent is a tube or a cap-type vent before buying supplies. The length of tubing for all vents depends on the way your truck set up, usually 12-15 feet is enough.

Tube-type Vents
The tube-type vents have a circular ending that it is easy to connect with a rubber hose that fits snug up to the vent. Each hose need to be securely fastened to the vents with a hose clamp. Don’t cut the tubing until you know for sure you have enough hose to route it upwards to where it needs to go.

Cap-type Vents
Cap-type vents are a mushroom-shaped vent that usually screw-in. Remove the cap that is on the vent by unscrewing it, take the cap into an auto parts store, and buy a nipple-vent with the same thread size and pitch. Replace the cap with the new nipple vent.

Buy a rubber hose that fit snugly over the new nipple-vent, and secure each location with a small hose clamp. Remember, leave enough hose for length.

Routing the Tubes
Transmission and Transfer Case Vents
1. Route the hoses from the transmission and transfer case, along the frame or body to the firewall.
2. Secure the horses with clamps of wire ties along the route as necessary.
3. Bring the hoses to the upper area of the firewall and secure again, leaving 4-5 inch tail.
4. Bend the tail into a downward curve and secure it near its end to keep the curve intact. Check to make sure the hose isn't pinched shut along the curve.

Front Differential Vent
1. Route the hose from the front differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube up the engine side of the radiator for support, attaching it as high as possible with a clamp or wire-ties.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.

Rear Differential Vent
1. Route the tube from the rear differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube to the front of the truck bed, then up between the bed and the cab to a point where you can secure it to the bed with a wire-tie.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.

Check All Tubing
• Check the tubing to make sure it's free of kinks and positioned away from hot exhaust or engine parts. Now you're ready to go through creeks and mud holes with very little chance of water entering the vents.
• Remember that water can enter components through other routes, so be sure to check the color of your differential grease and transmission fluid after each water excursion.

Detecting Water:
• Axle grease turns light brown--like chocolate milk--when it's mixed with water.
• Automatic transmission fluid turns pink when mixed with water.
Most manufacturers recommend you check the wheel bearings if you've been in water deeper than the hub. Re-pack the bearings if there's any sign of water entry.

Improving Fuel Economy (part 2)

2008-04-21T11:31:00.000-05:00

Maintaining, fixing any mechanical problems that become visible and keeping a vehicle properly tuned will increase the fuel economy as much as 4%, depending on what kind of repair is done to the vehicle. Repairing a major mechanical problem, such as a faulty oxygen sensor can increase the fuel economy as much as 40%.

A clean air filter can improve a vehicle’s fuel economy by 10%. When it’s time to change oil in a vehicle, that’s a good time to check the air filter. If the filter isn’t very dirty, just blow the filter with a blow gun. If the filter is clogged or really dirty, then the filter needs to be replaced. A clean air filter will not only saves gas, it protects the engine as well.

Keeping your tires on a vehicle properly inflated can also improve fuel economy by 3%. Most vehicles have a tire pressure chart inside the driver’s side door that has the proper tire pressure for each tire on that vehicle. If there’s no chart inside the door, look inside owner’s manual, on the side of tire, or ask your mechanic. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.

Using the recommended grade of motor oil that the manufacture suggests for a particular vehicle can increase fuel economy. For example, using 10W-30 motor oil in an engine designed to use 5W-30 can lower your gas mileage by 1-2 percent. Using 5W-30 in an engine designed for 5W-20 can lower your gas mileage by 1-1.5 percent. The owner manual suggests special oil grades for different weather conditions. For the best results, refer to the vehicle’s oil manual. Also, look for motor oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API performance symbol to be sure it contains friction-reducing additives.

Tips For Improving Fuel Economy

2008-04-03T10:27:00.002-05:00

Driving More Efficiently

1. Drive Sensibly- Speeding, accelerating quickly and constant braking wastes gas. In another words aggressive driving decreases you fuel economy by thirty-three percent.

2. Observe the Speed Limit- Each vehicle starts consuming fuel more rapidly at a curtain speed level. At 60 mph the fuel economy usually begins to decrease rapidly. The rule of thumb is for every 5 mph you go over 60 mph it is likely that you’ll be paying an extra $ 0.20 per gallon for gas.

3. Remove Excess Weight- The heavier your vehicle is, the lower your fuel economy is going to be. According to fueleconomy.com, an extra 100 pounds in/on your vehicle could reduce your miles per gallon up to 2 percent. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones. So, unload any unnecessary item in/or your vehicle.

4. Avoid Excessive Idling- When any vehicle idles, it receive a 0 mph for fuel economy.

5. Use Cruise Control- Using cruise control on highways and interstates helps ti maintain a constant that will improve a vehicle’s fuel economy.

6. Use Overdrive Gear- When driving on highways and interstates, it is important to put a vehicle into an overdrive gear or overdrive feature, if your vehicle has the option. The overdrive feature not only slowsa an engine down, but it increases a vehicle’s fuel economy.

How To Get Salt Off Your Vehicle Before Damage & Rust Sets In

2008-03-20T08:44:00.002-05:00

After driving in the winter conditions, you probably have salt under and on your vehicle. That salt on your vehicle can cause rust damage. Here tips to avoid rust on your vehicle, and to keep you vehicle in top condition:

1. Wash the exterior of your vehicle, using a power washer makes this easy. Spray between the cracks and crevices, in the wheel wells, and the vehicle’s undercarriage. After spraying thoroughly, wash the car with hot soapy water and then rise the soap off. This should be done periodically during the winter season, and one good wash when the winter season ends.
2. Once the winter season comes to an end, you can use matching touch-up paint to repair any chips or scratches if necessary. A body shop can help with this process.
3. Clean the engine compartment after covering all electric components with plastic. A power wash works great for this process.
4. Apply a coat of wax, a type of wax that contains a mild abrasive that will remove the film left by salt or other substance. This can be done periodically also.
5. Check tires for cuts and abrasions. Replace tires if necessary.
6. Lube all suspension fittings. Lube hood hinges, locks, and latches. Check your owner’s manual for lubricant recommendations.
7. Examine your brakes to make sure there’s plenty of material on brake pads and shoes. Look for components that are rusted or stuck due to salt corrosion.
8. Check your windshield wiper blades, since snow and ice are hard on them.

Other Tips
1. Don’t touch a vehicle with a wash mitt or a brush until you’ve used a hose to remove the visible dirt.
2. If a vehicle has wheel covers, remove them before washing to make it easier to clean the wheels and the back side of covers.
3. If you use Rain-X or a similar product on your windshield, apply a fresh coat when you’re finished.
4. A “touchless” type of car wash, is good alternative if you don’t have the place or equipment to wash your vehicle by hand. Be sure the car wash can wash your undercarriage and wheels, since where most of the salt built occurs.

5 Tips about Snow Tires

2008-02-11T11:09:00.000-06:00

1. Snow tires, also called winter tires, are specially design tread patterns that dig down and bite into snow and ice. Snow tires also have softer rubber compounds that maintain their flexibility in the cold weather, allowing the tire to get a better grip on the road. Regular tires tend to get hard and fragile in cold temperatures, and can’t grip the road as well. Tire grip is important in the winter months, not just to avoid getting stuck, but to a better grip on the road for stopping and steering. Any vehicle’s safety features, like anti-lock brakes, electronic stability control, and all-wheel-drove etc, won’t work properly if the tire can not keep a grip on the road.

2. All-weather or all-season tires are not necessarily snow tires. These tires can handle dry roads, rain, and mud. All-season tires are normally made from harder material that doesn’t grip the road as well in cold temperatures.

3. If someone was going to put snow tires on their vehicle, they should install snow tires on all four wheels. Just putting two snow tires on the drive wheels is not a good idea. If snow tires were put on the front of a front-wheel drive vehicle, the back tires would have less grip than the front tires, causing to spin out when braking and cornering. Also, if winter tires were installed on the back wheels of a rear drive car and not the front wheels, there’s not much of a grip for steering. This could cause your vehicle to go straight ahead, even if you just turned the steering wheel. It is important to install all four tires.

4. Snow tires can be left on year round, but they make noise going down the road. More important the softer compounds tread wear out faster in warmer temperatures. By the time that the snow arrives next winter, the tread would be worn off and would not grip on the tire to dig into snow and ice. When the snow is gone for winter, snow tires should be replaced, and regular tires should be put on. They don’t have to be all-season tire, just some good tires to get around in rain and that provides a smoother, quieter ride.

5. Mounting and balancing snow tires at the beginning and end of every winter season can be annoying. There are a couple of things that can be done to make this process easier and inexpensive. An extra set of wheels, rims, can be brought at a salvage yard to be use for your snow tires. As long as the rims have the same diameter and bolt pattern, they will work. Perhaps you may want to purchase a set of aftermarket wheels. Keep the original wheels and use them for your snow tires.

Important Winterizing Car Tips

2008-01-11T09:58:00.000-06:00

Winterizing your car is VERY important when that area gets to be 20°, 30° or even 40° below zero, similar to South Dakota, Minnesota and other cold neighboring states.
Here are tips some to help you and your vehicle survive the winter:

1. Your anti-freeze is the first thing to check. Many anti-freezes are ethylene glycol based fluid that has a low freezing point when mixed with water and a high boiling point, which makes an outstanding coolant for any vehicle. Anti-freeze is usually a bight green color. Other colors of anti-freeze can be either red, black or gold. The red should not be confused with Dex-Cool anti-freeze used in General Motor’s vehicles. Dex-Cool is for GM products only, and should not be mixed with other anti-freezes. GM rates Dex-Cool to last ten years or 100,000 miles before requiring a change.

Any type of anti-freeze should be change every two years or 30,000 miles, which ever comes first. The chemicals in the ethylene glycol that lubricates the water pump and inhibits corrosion in the engine, wears out and needs to be replace.

2. Your motor oil should be change, from season to season, depending what brand oil you use. If you change oil yourself, most oil companies print their summer and winter grade oil recommendations on their oil bottle or package. You should also check the Owners’ Manual of your vehicle for recommendations. The winter grade oil is lighter that makes your vehicle start easier in the cold. A local mechanic will recommend a oil grade, if you are still in doubt. Don’t forget to change the oil filter.

If you have your oil change by a mechanic, they will recommend a different oil grade.

3. When driving on highway a road that has a lot of salt and sand dumped on it, it takes ten second to cover your windshield with road debris if another vehicle passes you. This is why it is important to have a good set of windshield wiper blades, and check that your washer fluid sprays out properly before the winter season hits. Most washer fluids can stand ten degrees below zero, which is good enough for most part of the country. For South Dakota, Minnesota and other cold areas, that’s not going to cut it. We need to use something a little lower, which can found at retail stores, auto parts stores or your local mechanic shop.

4. The battery and alternator need to be working properly. Especially in the winter season, the battery needs the extra amps for a cold engine. Tips for keeping your battery clean and working properly: Clean the top of the battery with baking soda and water. Dirt and “blue snow” will slowly drain your battery and the colder it gets, the faster it will drain. When its nice and clean, spray a coat of terminal protector or put a layer of white lithium grease on the terminals to keep them clean and air away from them.

5. To prepare your engine for the cold wither months: You should get a vehicle tune-up, if it hasn’t been done in a while. The cold temperatures make it hard to ignite the fuel when starting, with a fresh set of spark plugs, new distributor cap, rotor and ignition wires as needed, your chances of your car starting without flooding greatly improves. Also look at the belts and hoses as well. Winter driving puts more stress on your engine than summer driving.

It is important to perform those winter maintenance tips so your vehicle(s) last a longer and healthy life. A local mechanic can help you accomplish these tasks.

The New 2008 F-Series Super Duty Trucks

2007-12-11T08:34:00.001-06:00

In 2007, Ford introduced the new generation of F-Series Super Duty trucks. The new F-Series have three body styles to choose from along with two different lengths. 4X2 and 4X4 are always options. Super Duty have three powerful engines to choose from, the 5.4l-liter Triton V-8, 6.4-liter Triton V-10, and introducing the new 6.4-liter Power Stroke Diesel V-8. The 6.0-liter was replaced due to unhappy customers.

Several new features have been added to 2008 Super Duty Trucks including: the handy tailgate step and grab handle that makes climbing in the bed easy, oversized power mirrors that extends inwards and outwards, and bed extender that splits in two and folds against the bed side. The 2008 Super Duty trucks have three cab choices: regular cabs, super cabs with rear seats accessed through rear-opening doors and a crew cabs with four full-sized doors and more space.

The regular cabs are available with an eight-foot bed. Super cabs and crew cabs have either six and three-quarter or eight-foot bed.

The 2008 F-Series Super Duty Trucks have a six-speed manual or five-speed TorqShift automatic transmission.

Ford has added new features on the 2008 F-450 Super Duty. The features includes for the first time, a factory pickup bed. King Ranch edition is now available for the F-450. King Ranch editions are equipped with unique leather seats that have saddle-style stitching.

You find more information on the New 2008 F-Series Super Duty Trucks go to http://www.fordvehicles.com/trucks/superduty/ on the web, or at your local Ford dealer.

Winter Auto Maintenance Checklist

2007-11-20T16:42:00.000-06:00

Winter weather is just around the corner, along with winter driving. It is very important have your vehicle inspected by you or an auto mechanic before the cold winter weather hits. A good vehicle inspection can prevent you from being stranded out in the cold.

It is a good idea to keep a maintenance log, to make sure everything gets check. Your vehicle should be inspected two times a year, before winter and in the spring. Inspections are important because the change in weather can be a threat to your vehicle’s system if is not maintain properly.

Freezing temps, salted roads and perception can harm to your vehicle if it is not inspected. These winter maintenance tips can keep your vehicle in good shape during the winter months:

1 .Check your antifreeze- Most vehicles, now of days, require a mixture of water and antifreeze, 50/50, in their radiators. The antifreeze level needs to be 50/50 or close to it. An auto mechanic can check the level for you, or a tester can be brought for around $5. It is recommended that the radiator should be flush out every spring.

2. Inspect your tires- The National Highway Transportation Safety Board recommends that you need at least 2/32” of tire tread to be safe. Anything less than 4/32” or 1/8” needs to be replace immediately. The old penny test is still a dependable way to check tire thread. Another important note is to keep checking your tire pressure. It is a fact that tires lose a little pressure in cold weather, so keep them pump up.

3. Replace your wipers- Windshield wipers help you in two ways: First, they keep snow falling from the sky off your windshield. Second, they keep your windshield clean from soupy muck that splashes up on your windshield when traveling down a soupy road. The muck might contain a mixture of sand, salt, and water, so having wipers that are in excellent shape can keep you and your windshield safe and clean.

4. Check your windshield washer fluid- It is important to keep your washer fluid full, to keep your windshield clean from that muck on the road. Tip: Don’t fill the washer fluid reservoir with anything expect washer fluid. Windshield washer fluid won’t freeze.

Following these winter auto maintenance tips can keep your vehicle and most importantly you safe in these winter months.

Top 10 Fuel-Efficient Vehicles

2007-11-05T09:45:00.000-06:00

1. Toyota Prius Hybrid
Mileage: City-60 Highway-51

2. Honda Civic
Mileage: Manual: City-30 Highway-38
Automatic: City-30 Highway-40
Hybrid: City-49 Highway-51

3. Toyota Camry Hybrid
Mileage: City-43 Highway-37

4. Toyota Corolla
Mileage: Manual: City-32 Highway-41
Automatic: City-30 Highway-38

5. MINI Cooper
Mileage: Manual: City-32 Highway-40
Automatic: City-30 Highway-37

6. Honda Fit
Mileage: Manual: City-33 Highway-38
Automatic Base: City-31 Highway-38
Automatic Sport: City-31 Highway-37

7. Ford Focus
Mileage: Manual: City-27 Highway-37
Automatic: City-27 Highway-34

8. Mercedes- Benz E320 BLUETEC
Mileage: City-26 Highway-37

9. Nissan Sentra
Mileage: Manual: City-28 Highway-34
Automatic: City-29 Highway-36

10. Nissan Altima
Mileage: Manual: City-26 Highway-35
CVT Automatic: City-26 Highway-34

My brakes are squealing! Does that mean I need a brake job?

2007-10-23T17:14:00.000-05:00

Not quite. Front-drive car and minivans that are built with brake pads these days, have a harder semi-metallic material. This material may cause a certain amount of brakes noise. This noise does not mean that there’s a brake problem. However , there ways to eliminate the noise.

Vibration between the brake pads, rotors and calipers cause the brake to squeal. Placing noise suppression shims, a thin self-adhesive strips, on the back of the pads, or applying noise suppression compound on the backs on the pads to moisten vibration can be done to reduce or eliminate the noise. If the noise is not better, then it might be time to resurface the rotors and replace the pads.

Some brands of semi-metallic are naturally noisier than others, because of the ingredients the manufacturers use. This may sound odd, but the cheaper pads occasionally appear quieter than the premuim quality or the original pads that came with the vehicle. It is not recommended that you go with cheaper pads. If the premium pad are installed properly, should create no noise.

A Mechanic can help you with the brake noise.

My engine uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. Should I be concerned?

2007-10-08T10:37:00.000-05:00

If your vehicle is using a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, it might time to sell or trade in your vehicle. A vehicle using a quart every 1,000 miles is starting to show ware on the motor. 1,000 miles is still an acceptable amount for a quart of oil. The amount of oil use will gradually increase as you put on more miles on your car or truck. When you are adding a quart every 500 miles or less, it’s time for an overhaul.

Your engine’s oil consumption depends mainly on two things: the valve guides and piston rings. If the valve guides are worn, if there’s too much clearance between the valve stems and the guides or if the valve guide seals are worn, cracked, missing, broken, or improperly installed, the engine will suck oil down to the guides and into the cylinders. Even if an engine uses a lot of oil, the engine may still have good compression.

If the valve guides are worn, they can usually be replace at a mechanic shop. Knurling, sleeving or the guides and boring out the guides and installing valves with oversized stems will stop the loss of oil.

Oil can also slip past the rings if the rings and cylinders are badly worn or damaged. This may be that the cylinders were not honed properly when the engine was built or rebuilt or if the rings were installed improperly.

When a newly-built engine is first started, the rings require a certain amount of time to “seat” or break-in. If the rings fail to seal properly, the engine will use oil. In this case, the wrong finish was applied to the cylinders, which failed to clean and lubricate the cylinders properly before the engine was fired up, or the proper break-in procedure.

In some case, worn rod bearings, excessive bearing clearances and/or excessive oil pressure can slash too much oil on the cylinders, causing oil to get past the rings.

The cure for worn rings and cylinders is to overhaul the engine block. The cylinders have to be refinished and new rings installed to regain good oil control.

Finding The Right Repair Shop

2007-09-24T10:09:00.000-05:00

Here are some tips for finding the right repair shop:

• Search for a repair shop before you need one. Picking a repair at the last-minute could cause you to pay more than what is needed or get poor quality service.

• One of the best ways to pick the right repair shop is by Word-of-Mouth. Ask friends and family for repair shop recommendations, technicians they trust.

• Repair shop may need to licensed or registered by a state or local law. It always a good idea to see the shop’s current license(s). In addition, ask you State Attorney General’s office and a local consumer protection agency about the repair shop’s complaint record.

• Check if the repair shop is able to repair your car as needed or on time.

• Make sure the repair shop supports your vehicle’s warranty.

* Shop around and compare different repair shops for the best deal.

Top 7 tips to help buy a vehicle without flood damaged

2007-09-10T16:12:00.000-05:00

Have you ever gone to a car lot or saw a vehicle that you thought that the price was too good to pass up? Before you dig your money out and sign that paper work, you may want to pay attention to this.

Whether you know it or not, most vehicles that are sent to a salvage yard with flood damaged are clean up and then put back on car lots. Flooded vehicles may have water that leaves lasting damages, like electrical and mechanical components that may fail earlier than they’re suppose to. Mold and mildew aren’t easy to eliminate in vehicles. Most of the time the remaining warranty doesn’t cover flood damaged. Believe it or not, there are car dealers that sell flood damaged vehicles to unsuspecting buyers that think they’re getting a great deal.

Here are the top seven tips to help you avoid buying a flood damaged vehicle.

1. Look for Moisture and Dirt: Watch for breads of trapped moisture in all the vehicle’s lights. Lookout for signs of dampness and gritty dirt that’s leftover from a flood in the glove compartment, console, trunk and on the floor broads. Look for signs of rust and accumulate dirt under the hood. Slide your handunder the seat to check any signs of moisture.

2. Take a Sniff: Does the vehicle smell like a sour, mildew-like order? A vehicle will have an unpleasant order if the carpeting and seats were socked with or had water in the vehicle. The order is outstanding if the vehicle has been out in hot and humid conditions.

3. Look for New or Mismatched Interior Components: A good indication that a vehicle had flood damaged is the carpet’s condition. The carpet may look newer than the vehicle itself. Another indication that a vehicle have flood damaged is the seats. Do they have seat covers on the seats? Why? Is it because they go with the vehicle, matches the color scheme? Or does the seat covers seam to be out of place, different colors? It may be a possibility that the whole seat(s) themselves have been replaced. Another thing to look for in the interior, is for any new or different colored components; like dashboards, gauges, vanity mirrors, etc.

4. Get a Vehicle History Report from Carfax: Carfax does a great job of researching a vehicle’s background by its VIN number. A clean slate is not a 100% guarantee that the car or truck hasn’t suffered water damage. Look for signs that the vehicle has been titled in multiple states, a clue that the owners are attempting to clean up a negative notation on the title, such as salvaged or totaled, is by shuffling it into and out of areas where damaged disclosures differ or don’t exist.

5. Turn it On and Go for a Drive: First thing you do is turn the vehicle to the on position and check everything that is electrical that you can, including exterior and interior lights, gauges, clock and audio system, and dash lights that displays air bag and seat belt etc. information. Next, start the vehicle and take it for a test drive, Make sure that all the electrical components are working correctly.

6. Let your Technician Examine the Vehicle: Take the vehicle to your mechanic or someone you trust, and ask for a thorough examination. Experienced technicians will know what to look for any signs of flood damage. (If the vehicle still has a new car warranty, and your technician find evidence of flood damage, the warranty is invaild.

7. Don’t take a chance: If the vehicle that you are looking at has flood damage, WALK AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE. The money that you save will become the money you will spend to replace components in the vehicle, even if the vehicle is under warranty. DO NOT CHANCE IT. Find a vehicle that you can depend on.

My air conditioner isn’t cooling very well. What’s Wrong?

2007-08-20T16:25:00.002-05:00

Several things could cause this problem:
• Low Freon- An air conditioner system requires a certain amount of Freon to cool properly. If the Freon level is low, the system does not work properly and does not cool well.
• Dirty Condenser- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front on the radiator. It cools the high pressure Freon vapor after it leaves the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. Any substances such as; leaves, bugs, road debris, etc., that may be in the condenser, block the air flow causing the air conditioner to cool less. Keeping the condenser clean should prevent this problem.
• Inoperative Condenser Cooling Fan- When the air conditioner in on, the condenser’s electric cooling fan should turn on and remain on. The fan may not run due to the fan’s motor, motor relay, or wiring being burnt out.
• Air or Moisture Contamination- In order for the Freon to work properly there must not be any air and moisture in with the Freon. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system, while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in the orifice tubes and metering values. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of non repaired leaks in the system or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with Freon.
• Blockages- Debris such as, rust in the system can plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that enters Freon into the evaporator. This process is a very important point of the cooling system. If the Freon becomes restricted or blocked, a lack of cooling becomes in affect. This may cause possible compressor damaged as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with Freon for lubrication.
• Mechanical Problem- Air Conditioning system failure like; metering value failures, compressor wear, compressor clutch engaged failure, bad pressure switches, etc. may need a skilled A/C technician’s attention.

Time For A Road Trip

2007-04-27T14:15:00.000-05:00

Summer is here which also means summer vacations. Majority of people drive to their summer vacation spots, whether it be one long trip or several small ones throughout the summer. Making sure your vehicle is ready for the trip is just as important as making sure your destination is ready for you.
Seven simple items can make or break your vacation:
Flush Radiator: this should be done once a year to help prevent corrosion and failure.
Replace Air Filter: Your vehicle needs to breath just as much as you do.
Check Tires: Poor tread depth can greatly reduce traction, especially during summer rain.
Windshield Wipers: Winter is hard on wipers and by summer they can be dry & cracked.
Brakes: A quick check during the oil change is well worth it.
Battery: Cold weather can cause corrosion build up.
Headlights: You are sometimes the last to know your headlight is out. Better to find out now than after the police stop you.

Following the above tips should improve chances of something going wrong with your summer driving vacation. There is always more you can have checked out but atleast doing the above will help. Drive safely!!

Morning Sickness

2007-04-13T15:30:00.000-05:00

Do you have morning sickness? No, not you! Your car! If the power steering of your car feels stiff when you first start it and once you've driven a while it loosens up, it has what is callled "morning sickness." GM vehicles are most notorious for this situation. It is caused by wear in the spool valve housing on the power steering rack.

When a car is started the rack is cold and clearances in the spool valve are great. Hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump leaks past the grooves worn into the aluminum spool valve housing which causes a loss of pressure and makes steering more difficult. Once the car is warmed up, the clearances decrease, which increases the pressure making steering easier.

In order to eliminate this problem, you need to replace the rack. Your best options are ones with a cast iron spool valve housing or a remanufactured rack with a stainless steel sleeve pressed into the aluminum housing.

Torque VS. Horsepower

2007-03-30T14:11:00.000-05:00

Which is more important? Well that depends on what you use your vehicle for. Higher torque ratings are more important if you pull a trailer, haul heavy loads or drive on roads with long, steep grades. More horsepower is if you like to get from stoplight to stoplight in record speed or if you do a lot of quick acceleration driving.

Torque is the force that helps your vehicle start moving from a stop and pulls it up steep hills. Horsepower moves the vehicle along and gives it the ability to cruise on the highway and accelerate. The higher horsepower and torque ratings also means lower fuel economy. That is another reason to know your needs because with fuel prices, who wants to pay even more when they don't have to.

Spring Is In The Air

2007-03-09T13:08:00.000-06:00

Winter is soon coming to a close and warmer weather is on the horizon. Living in an area that has snowfall during the winter can be hard on your vehicle in several ways. One is the effects of salt and sand used on the roads. It is great to have that extra traction, but what it does to your air filter will have your engine breathing heavy. By now your air filter is more than likely clogged, which can reduce your gas mileage and accerleration. Having your air filter changed is a quick and cheap fix to keep your vehicle running more smoothly and efficiently.

Can You See?

2007-03-01T14:35:00.000-06:00

You should check your wiper blades every six months and replace if necessary. It is very important during the winter months due to snow, ice, sleet, rain and road grime. Most people don't realize they need new ones until they are on the road and suddenly need their wipers and cannot see. This is not only an inconvenience but very dangerous.

To help make your blades last longer you can clean them using a lint-free cloth or papertowel soaked in windshield washer fluid or mild detergent. Also keeping your windshield clean will help. Early deterioration of blades can be caused by extreme dust, extreme heat, sand & salt in snow areas, pulling frozen blades off windshields and using your wipers to remove frost.

Choosing An Auto Repair Shop

2007-02-16T11:28:00.000-06:00

Automobile repairs are inevitable if you own a vehicle. Knowing where you will take your vehicle when a breakdown occurs can not only save you money but also make the inconvenience a little less stressful.

Reputation: Asking friends and family where they take their vehicle. Inquire about their experiences and whether they would recommend them.

Mechanic Qualifications: Ask the shop manager if the mechanics are certified, such as Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). Do they have special certifications for items like brakes, electrical, transmission, etc.?

Warranty: If your vehicle is under a warranty, make sure the shop is authorized to perfrom the repairs. Any unauthorized repair may void your warranty and require you to pay for the repair.

Appearance of Service Area: Is the shop clean & well-maintained? Is the equipment and tools modern and applicable to your needs?

Customer Service: Do you require a loaner vehicle, a ride to work or special hours? Do you require a tow truck?

Cost: Ask for an estimate. Compare hourly rates among shops. Even parts can differ.

Being prepared for the inevitable breakdown is worth the time and effort. Not only for your checkbook but also for your peace of mind.

Are You Up-to-Date?

2007-02-09T11:55:00.001-06:00

Have you been postponing general maintenance on your vehicle? Short of cash? If you do not keep up with general maintenance it could end up costing you a lot more in the long run.

Many parts of your vehicle are inter-related, so not keeping up with general maintenance could lead to bigger problems. Failing to complete simple maintenance such as changing the oil and checking your coolant can lead to poor fuel economy, unreliability, costly breakdowns and could also invalidate your warranty.

Following the manufacturer's recommendations is the best way to keep your vehicle in good condition. They can be found in the owner's manual and if you do not have one, you can contact the manufacturer to get the recommendations.

When Should I Change My Antifreeze?

2007-02-02T10:20:00.000-06:00

Manufacturers generally recommend coolant changes every 2-3 years or 30,000 miles. Some do change theirs every year for maximum corrosion protection, especially if your vehicle has aluminum heads, blocks or radiators.

The life of antifreeze depends generally on it's ability to prevent corrosion. Once that ability is gone, corrosion will begin and start eating away the metal inside the engine and radiator. To find out if should to change your antifreeze you need to test it. You can purchase test strips that indicate the condition and whether it should be changed.

Reverse flush is the ideal way to change coolant because if you only drain and add, it can leave a significant amount of the old coolant in the engine block. It will also help removing deposits and scale which will interfere with good heat transfer.

Tire inflation and safe summer vacation

2006-08-14T16:52:00.000-05:00

1) Don't wait until it's too late. Make it a habit to check your tire pressure at least once per month and before every long trip. Under inflated tires cause excess heat build-up that can damage tires and lead to a failure.
2) Know your tires recommended pressure specs. The correct tire pressure is found on a sticker on the drivers door, doorpost, or owner's manual. The tires sidewall rating is the maximum pressure the tire.
3) Keep your cool. To accurately measure your tire pressure, check tires when they are cold. Wait at least three hours after driving.
4) Take care of your spare. Make sure you have a spare that has air when you leave for your trip.
5) Penny for your thoughts? A penny can tell you if your tire is bald. Place a penny upside down in a tread groove. If you can see Lincoln's head, it's time for a new tire.
6) Keep yourself in line. Be aware of debris on the road. It doesn't take a whole lot to wreck a tire.
7) Pick a date and rotate. Make sure you rotate your tires every 6,000 - 8,000 miles to promote uniform wear and longer tire life.
8) Don't take a spin without a cap. Driving without your tire valve cap allows for a slow leak of air from the tire.
9) Don't lose your balance. It is also important to have your tire balance checked periodically to avoid irregular wear.
10) Be a weight-watcher. Overloading your vehicle stresses your tires and can lead to damage.