Summer is upon us, and for most it means summer vacations, road trips and just the typical summer driving. Before you start traveling this summer, you may want to spend some time going over this summer maintenance checklist. This checklist can help you stay on the road instead on the side of the road, and most importantly out of a mechanic shop.
Heat is one of the biggest enemies on your vehicle. Fortunately vehicles are built to handle the heat that extends over 100 degrees. That is, if they are maintained properly. The two most important things to take care of when seasons change are oil and coolant. Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles, depending on the oil you use. The coolant in a radiator doesn’t last forever, the radiator should be flushed every 60,000 miles. Fresh oil and coolant can help keep your engine cooler. If any of these two fluids are low or old, heat buildup is predictable.
Other things to check before summer traveling:
Clean Air Filter: Air filter should be checked and blown out with an air gun every time you check oil. After you blow out all the dust, hold the air filter up to a good source of light. If you can see light through the air filter, it does not need to be replaced. If you can’t see light through the air filter, it’s time to replace the filter.
Check Tires: Check all four tires of your automobile, make sure the tread depth of the tires is good for driving in the rain. Also check the air pressure in your tires, you can find the recommended amount of pressure on the inside of the driver’s door, in the owners manual or on the side of the tire. Look on the inside of the driver’s side door or in the owners manual first.
Check Wiper Blades: It’s important to have good windshield wiper blades for the summer rain, winter weather can do a number on them.
Inspect Brakes: Brakes on any vehicle should be inspected at every oil change to keep you always safe. Also it’s important to check the brake fluid. A mechanic technician can assist you in this process.
Check the Battery: Winter weather can also cause battery corrosion. Check your battery posts and cables for any corrosion to make sure that you can start up right away.
Check All Lights: You may not notice a light bulb(s) out on your vehicle. Now would a good time to go through all the lights on your vehicle. Have someone assist you in this process, it’s a lot easier. Check the headlights, blinkers, brakes lights, license plate lights and reversed lights. Checking these lights will not only keep you safe, it will prevent you from getting a ticket.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
Driving off Road in Water and Mud
The transmission, transfer case and front and rear differentials needs to be vented in your truck. The vents balance changes in air pressure as temperatures go up and down when driving on roads. If you’re off-road driving and get water in those vents, that’s were you start having problems. Water that gets in those vents, contaminates the lubricants that protect the bearings and gear parts and can lead to damage. Keeping water out of the vents is easy; just use these techniques to set up your truck for off road driving.
Elevate the Vents
Before you go off-roading, attach tubing to vents that most likely get water in them and extend them to a high location on your truck. A rubber hose, like a vacuum hose, can be use for the tubing.
Before you begin, locate the vents to figure out if each vent is a tube or a cap-type vent before buying supplies. The length of tubing for all vents depends on the way your truck set up, usually 12-15 feet is enough.
Tube-type Vents
The tube-type vents have a circular ending that it is easy to connect with a rubber hose that fits snug up to the vent. Each hose need to be securely fastened to the vents with a hose clamp. Don’t cut the tubing until you know for sure you have enough hose to route it upwards to where it needs to go.
Cap-type Vents
Cap-type vents are a mushroom-shaped vent that usually screw-in. Remove the cap that is on the vent by unscrewing it, take the cap into an auto parts store, and buy a nipple-vent with the same thread size and pitch. Replace the cap with the new nipple vent.
Buy a rubber hose that fit snugly over the new nipple-vent, and secure each location with a small hose clamp. Remember, leave enough hose for length.
Routing the Tubes
Transmission and Transfer Case Vents
1. Route the hoses from the transmission and transfer case, along the frame or body to the firewall.
2. Secure the horses with clamps of wire ties along the route as necessary.
3. Bring the hoses to the upper area of the firewall and secure again, leaving 4-5 inch tail.
4. Bend the tail into a downward curve and secure it near its end to keep the curve intact. Check to make sure the hose isn't pinched shut along the curve.
Front Differential Vent
1. Route the hose from the front differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube up the engine side of the radiator for support, attaching it as high as possible with a clamp or wire-ties.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Rear Differential Vent
1. Route the tube from the rear differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube to the front of the truck bed, then up between the bed and the cab to a point where you can secure it to the bed with a wire-tie.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Check All Tubing
• Check the tubing to make sure it's free of kinks and positioned away from hot exhaust or engine parts. Now you're ready to go through creeks and mud holes with very little chance of water entering the vents.
• Remember that water can enter components through other routes, so be sure to check the color of your differential grease and transmission fluid after each water excursion.
Detecting Water:
• Axle grease turns light brown--like chocolate milk--when it's mixed with water.
• Automatic transmission fluid turns pink when mixed with water.
Most manufacturers recommend you check the wheel bearings if you've been in water deeper than the hub. Re-pack the bearings if there's any sign of water entry.
Elevate the Vents
Before you go off-roading, attach tubing to vents that most likely get water in them and extend them to a high location on your truck. A rubber hose, like a vacuum hose, can be use for the tubing.
Before you begin, locate the vents to figure out if each vent is a tube or a cap-type vent before buying supplies. The length of tubing for all vents depends on the way your truck set up, usually 12-15 feet is enough.
Tube-type Vents
The tube-type vents have a circular ending that it is easy to connect with a rubber hose that fits snug up to the vent. Each hose need to be securely fastened to the vents with a hose clamp. Don’t cut the tubing until you know for sure you have enough hose to route it upwards to where it needs to go.
Cap-type Vents
Cap-type vents are a mushroom-shaped vent that usually screw-in. Remove the cap that is on the vent by unscrewing it, take the cap into an auto parts store, and buy a nipple-vent with the same thread size and pitch. Replace the cap with the new nipple vent.
Buy a rubber hose that fit snugly over the new nipple-vent, and secure each location with a small hose clamp. Remember, leave enough hose for length.
Routing the Tubes
Transmission and Transfer Case Vents
1. Route the hoses from the transmission and transfer case, along the frame or body to the firewall.
2. Secure the horses with clamps of wire ties along the route as necessary.
3. Bring the hoses to the upper area of the firewall and secure again, leaving 4-5 inch tail.
4. Bend the tail into a downward curve and secure it near its end to keep the curve intact. Check to make sure the hose isn't pinched shut along the curve.
Front Differential Vent
1. Route the hose from the front differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube up the engine side of the radiator for support, attaching it as high as possible with a clamp or wire-ties.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Rear Differential Vent
1. Route the tube from the rear differential to the frame, allowing enough slack for axle movement. Secure as necessary.
2. Bring the tube to the front of the truck bed, then up between the bed and the cab to a point where you can secure it to the bed with a wire-tie.
3. Leave a tail again, then curve it downward and secure its end.
Check All Tubing
• Check the tubing to make sure it's free of kinks and positioned away from hot exhaust or engine parts. Now you're ready to go through creeks and mud holes with very little chance of water entering the vents.
• Remember that water can enter components through other routes, so be sure to check the color of your differential grease and transmission fluid after each water excursion.
Detecting Water:
• Axle grease turns light brown--like chocolate milk--when it's mixed with water.
• Automatic transmission fluid turns pink when mixed with water.
Most manufacturers recommend you check the wheel bearings if you've been in water deeper than the hub. Re-pack the bearings if there's any sign of water entry.
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